12 days in Vietnam
“Andreas. And you? What is your name?” I continued repeating and pointing to myself and to her, hoping to discover her name, so that I could properly thank her for her immense kindness. The lady, in her late 50s, kept smiling at me, evidently because she didn’t understand a single word coming out of my mouth. Eventually, I gave up and simply bowed slightly, placing my hands in a prayer position—a gesture to greet and express gratitude in Vietnam—before rushing back into the rainstorm to join the rest of the group and be on our way.
This incident remains one of the fondest memories of my 12-day journey to Vietnam and a story I always share when people want to learn more about this enchanting Southeast Asian destination. But let’s take things from the beginning and provide more context on this life-affirming experience while unravelling the whole story behind the aforementioned scene.
DAY 1 – SOUTH VIETNAM – Ho Chi Minh City
After a long flight, multiple airport changes, and a layover in Singapore, a group of around 20 people, mainly from Greece, and I finally landed in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon) on a September morning. It is the largest city in Vietnam, situated in the southern part of the country. The plan was to traverse the country, visiting as many locations as possible, starting from the south and concluding in the north.
As expected, the bustling metropolis, home to 9 million people, has countless things to offer and discover, especially with its rich history related to the Vietnam War. However, our first order of business was to satisfy our hunger, which led us to the renowned Ben Nghe Street Food Market. This lively marketplace, adorned with a myriad of colours, including some gorgeous wall murals, along with a symphony of sounds and tempting aromas, was a sensory feast. Sampling culinary delights and engaging with vendors provided us with the perfect initial encounter with the local food scene.
Some of the city’s most important sites are within walking distance so next, we strolled to visit the Reunification Palace, also known as the Reunification Convention Hall. It was once the residence and workplace of the president of South Vietnam, and gained historical importance as the site of the Fall of Saigon on April 30th, 1975, marking the end of the Vietnam War and the reunification of the country. For me, perhaps the most fascinating part of the Palace was its basement (bunker), with its telecommunications centre, war room, and a long warren of tunnels where you could immerse yourself in the atmosphere of those turbulent times in the 70s.
Another must-visit war-related site is the War Remnants Museum, situated not far from the Independence Palace. The museum houses a collection of artefacts, photographs, and documents vividly portraying the suffering endured by the Vietnamese people and the broader consequences of the Vietnam War. Despite the disturbing content, you may find it interesting if you have a fascination with that period of history. I must admit that I mostly enjoyed the display featuring hundreds of images captured by war journalists during the conflict, some of which are already globally recognized.
Next on our itinerary was the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon, a stunning example of Neo-Romanesque architecture. However, to our disappointment, both its facade and interior were undergoing refurbishment. Instead, we redirected our steps to the adjacent Saigon Central Post Office, a beautiful French colonial building designed by Gustave Eiffel himself and constructed between 1886 and 1891, when the country was still a French colony known as “French Indochina”.
After finally satisfying our thirst for some Instagrammable shots and purchasing our first souvenirs, we strolled through the city and found ourselves amazed by the freshly-squeezed juices at a local juice bar. To cap off a busy day, we walked along the vibrant Bui Vien Street, a bustling thoroughfare right in the heart of the city known for its lively atmosphere, affordable bars and restaurants, and an array of street performers. The atmosphere was simply electrifying, a strong contrast of what we usually think of the country. We wrapped up the night with some drinks at one of the street’s rooftop bars, savouring the city’s skyline.
Fun fact: Ho Chi Minh City’s current name was given in 1975 after the unification of North and South Vietnam in honour of the nation’s hero.
DAY 2 – SOUTH VIETNAM – Cu Chi Tunnels
After a much-needed good night’s sleep, we departed from our hotel to explore the Cu Chi Tunnels, located approximately 60 kilometres northwest of Ho Chi Minh City. If you’ve enjoyed movies like Apocalypse Now (1979) and Platoon (1986), you’ll undoubtedly find this place fascinating. The remarkably preserved Cu Chi Tunnels form an extensive underground network spanning 250 kilometres, cleverly concealed in lush forests. They played a pivotal role in the Viet Cong’s guerrilla warfare strategy against the United States and the South Vietnamese forces during the Vietnam War. Dug entirely by hand, these tunnels allowed the Viet Cong to move troops and supplies undetected, offering a secure haven from airstrikes and artillery fire.
During our visit, we had the opportunity to learn and experience everything about this expansive underground system. Even for a brief moment, we had the unique chance to feel like Viet Cong, crawling through a small portion of the tunnels—though not recommended for those with claustrophobia. Furthermore, we witnessed firsthand the diverse traps and ambushes employed by the Viet Cong against enemy forces. For those interested, the tour concludes with a chance to test your aim by firing an AK- 47, also known as a Kalashnikov, a Soviet assault rifle and arguably the most widely utilised shoulder weapon in the world.
After our small adrenaline-filled jungle adventure, we returned to the city to visit the Landmark 81, Vietnam’s tallest skyscraper and the 17th tallest building in the world at 461 metres. The soaring structure boasts luxury apartments, offices, a mall, and an observation deck, making it a symbol of Vietnam’s progress. Upon purchasing an entrance ticket to its summit, you can savour some breathtaking views of the city below and the Saigon River’s busy shipping lanes.
Watching the sunset from the clouds was mesmerising, but the city was waiting for us. So, we ventured back to the bustling Ben Thanh Market, a historic city landmark dating back to the 17th century. This vibrant marketplace, a true cultural melting pot, is a must-visit for any traveller seeking a taste of local Vietnamese life. With its labyrinthine aisles filled with an eclectic array of goods, from traditional handicrafts and souvenirs to fresh produce and local delicacies, Ben Thanh Market is a sensory overload and a place where you can truly experience the heart and soul of Ho Chi Minh City.
Useful info: The easiest way to get to Cu Chi Tunnels is by taxi or private car/bus. The journey takes about 1.5 hours. There are also a few tour companies that offer day trips to the Cu Chi Tunnels from Ho Chi Minh City.
DAY 3 – SOUTH VIETNAM – Mekong River Delta
I was already excited about all the shots I would take on the 3rd day of our adventure as we left Ho Chi Minh again and headed to the ‘rice basket’ of the country, the Mekong River Delta. This vast region is not only rich in natural beauty but also provides nearly 70% of Vietnam’s agricultural output. The Mekong River Delta is located approximately 2 hours away from Ho Chi Minh and is home to a huge network of rivers, canals, and wetlands. The whole area is quite massive and cannot be explored during a mere day trip, so plan accordingly if you don’t have many days to spare.
As we reached My Tho Marina, we embarked on a boat to explore the neighbouring islands located between Mỹ Tho and Bến Tre, very creatively named: Dragon (Con Tang Long), Tortoise (Du Lich Con Qui), Phoenix (Con Phung), and Unicorn (Con Thoi Son) Islands. While the river’s murky waters are not the most pleasant sight, you can’t help but be amazed by its immense size and significance to millions of people. We first disembarked on Unicorn Island, a primary location for travel activities, where we walked through several small shops and restaurants framed by a palm tree-covered alley to our breakfast place. We tasted a number of delicious local fruits while women in traditional costumes sang and played traditional tunes.
Our next activity was an iconic one, as we embarked on a traditional longtail boat capable of holding only 4 people and 2 local drivers. Donned in the emblematic conical hat, we calmly navigated through the river’s canals surrounded by dense palm tree vegetation. After a smooth ride in the river’s water, we finally reached and boarded a larger boat that took us to the other side of the river shores to visit a coconut candy-making facility. There, we watched the whole process of making the famous local coconut candy – from shredding the coconut, to turning it into powder, to mixing and packaging.
Once again, we boarded small longtail boats to go further up the canals, along the shore, to reach a large restaurant facility hidden in the forest, featuring large ponds of fishes and even alligators, called Nhà hàng sinh thái Việt Nhật. You can’t visit Vietnam and not ride a bike, so next on the schedule was a bike ride along the small alleyways of the area, where kids came out to greet us while ladies were sweeping the streets, and small boats passed below wooden bridges. A tropical storm caught us off guard, so after waiting for a while under a big house’s porch, we cycled back to the restaurant where we had the chance to enjoy a lush fish-based lunch.
Leaving behind the islands, it was time for some religious pilgrimage, so our last stop before heading back to the city was The Vinh Trang Pagoda, the largest Buddhist temple in the region. One of its highlights is a stunning towering seven-story pagoda, of a harmonious blend of Vietnamese, Khmer, and Chinese architectural styles. What’s more, the pagoda houses a remarkable collection of huge Buddha statues, visible from miles away.
Back in the city, we wrapped up our long but fascinating day by visiting Ho Chi Minh Square. Crowned by the splendid French colonial-era City Hall, it serves as a gateway to nearby markets, restaurants, and cafes, allowing visitors to explore the city’s diverse facets. The square has a very energetic vibe, where you can see teenagers handling snakes, street vendors selling peculiar food, kids breathing fire, and bands singing live, among other performances. It’s definitely a must-visit in the city for any type of traveller.
Did you know: Mekong River, one of the world’s largest rivers, originates from the Tibetan Plateau and traverses 4,500 km through China, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam before flowing into the South China Sea.
DAY 4 – CENTRAL VIETNAM – Hoi An
Vietnam is slightly larger than Italy in size, but its morphology and shape, often compared to a bamboo pole with loads at each end (north and south), make it a complex task to travel through. Thus, we departed early in the morning to catch an internal flight to the centre of Vietnam, to Da Nang and specifically to the picturesque town of Hoi An, one of the country’s most characteristic locations. Hoi An, situated at the central coast along the banks of the Thu Bon River, boasts a rich history dating back over 2,000 years as a thriving trading port. Known as the ‘City of Lanterns,’ Hoi An’s well-preserved ancient town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its charming streets, historic buildings, and, of course, its colourful lanterns.
The famous Japanese Bridge was under construction, so we headed to Hoi Quan Phuoc Kien, a beautiful architectural complex in the heart of the Old Town. Founded in the late 17th century by Chinese merchants from the Fujian province, this historic site serves both as a meeting place for the Fujian community and a place of worship for the sea goddess Thien Hau. The architecture of Hoi Quan Phuoc Kien is a captivating blend of Chinese and Vietnamese influences, showcasing intricate woodwork, delicate carvings, and vibrant porcelain mosaics.
Hoi An Old Town is a fascinating sight, where its narrow streets, traditional shops, plants, and flowers adorning wooden door frames, along with overhanging streams of vibrant lanterns, evoke scenes from a Far East fairytale. As evening descends, the old town becomes more romantic when its hundreds of lanterns light up almost everywhere, thus creating a feast for the eyes.
Meanwhile, the Thu Bon River comes alive with the soft glow of more lanterns, this time decorating the countless traditional wooden boats that drift slowly on the calm river waters. Passengers can board these beautifully-decorated vessels guided by skillful rowers and enjoy a tranquil ride along the river, watching dozens of other boats passing by, stirring the luminous reflections of the river surface. Touristy or not, it was a remarkable experience I didn’t regret for a second and another item off my bucket list.
Fun Fact: Hoi An is not only famous for its lanterns but also for its role as a culinary haven, offering a diverse range of delectable dishes. I tried some of the freshest and most delicious food in Hoi An
DAY 5 – CENTRAL VIETNAM– Hoi An countryside
One positive aspect of travelling during the wet season in most South Asian countries is that it is less crowded, and prices are lower. One drawback is that you’ll most probably come across days of rain. Our fifth day was one of those, but it didn’t manage to dampen our spirits. We began the day with a bicycle tour through Hoi An’s countryside. We passed narrow earthen roads along lush green rice paddies, where impressive water buffalos were sleeping in the mud, while local men and women with straw conical hats were working in the fields. We were able to witness the daily life of farmers firsthand when our guide introduced us to a couple of them. They showed us how to plough the field with the help of the water buffalos, how to prepare the soil with a hoe, and even planted rice. Needless to say, it was a very dirty job but also a quite unique experience.
We continued our bike ride to Cam Thanh Coconut Village, where we experienced a traditional basket boat ride, locally known as ‘Thúng chài’, that began with loud Western music and lots of swirling of the small basket boat, a sort of ‘basket dance performance.’ Our very sweet local guide single-paddled us through a natural maze of canals and coconut palms for almost an hour. She made several stops to show us how to catch small crabs hiding between the roots of the palm trees and even made some rings and crowns out of folded palm tree leaves. Following the enjoyable boat ride, we continued cycling until we reached our guide’s home. There, a super delicious meal all prepared by his wife was waiting for us, as well as a quick cooking lesson.
The plan after lunch was to head to An Bang Beach for some sunbathing and swimming, but as I already mentioned, the weather had other plans as it started raining again when we were halfway there. We did end up at the beach, but most of us decided to just relax at one of the seaside bars and have a drink while waiting for the rain to stop. It wasn’t hard to see that this picturesque location is adorned by an expansive stretch of golden sand, complemented by the clear blue waters of the South China Sea. Unlike most crowded tourist spots, An Bang offers a tranquil ambiance, making it an ideal retreat for leisure and relaxation.
Important fact: Hoi An served as a thriving trading port for over 2,000 years, making it one of Vietnam’s most historically significant cities.
DAY 6 – CENTRAL VIETNAM – Ba Na Hills SunWorld
It was time to leave Hoi An and head north, but before doing so, we couldn’t miss the opportunity to visit another of Vietnam’s most Instagram-worthy attractions – the Golden Bridge. The famous landmark is not situated in the middle of nowhere, as many people might think from seeing pictures on social media. Instead, it is part of Ba Na Hills SunWorld, Vietnam’s most significant resort and recreational complex. This massive amusement park is perched on a stunning mountain landscape at the Ba Na Hills right outside Da Nang city. Apart from being an amusement park, it is also a cultural and entertainment complex, featuring replicas of French mediaeval villages, vibrant gardens, an indoor amusement area, and even a Pagoda with a colossal Buddha statue.
If you are not convinced by all the Golden Bridge fuss, perhaps you will be persuaded by the journey to get there. The only way to reach the famous bridge is via the Ba Na Hills Cable Car, which offers a breathtaking 25-minute journey over waterfalls, rivers, and forests. It holds the title of the world’s longest non-stop single-track cable car, a true engineering marvel. Finally, the 150-metre-long Golden Bridge, a marvel in itself, spans across the hills, standing on two giant hands that emerge from the mountain at an altitude of 1500 metres. On clear days without fog or thick clouds, as was the case for us, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.
After spending the whole morning exploring the park’s various sites and attractions, we headed to Da Nang Airport for another internal flight, this time to Hanoi in the north. We had no time to explore the city, though, as upon arrival, we boarded the Sleeper bus to Sapa, embarking on an approximately 6-hour journey. Interestingly enough, the bus was not an ordinary one; it featured almost 20 private individual cabins with beds, allowing us to sleep comfortably during the trip.
Tip: visit the Golden Bridge early in the morning to avoid the crowds and get a shot with as few people on it as possible.
DAY 7 – NORTHERN VIETNAM – Sapa
I was so tired during the Sleeper bus that when we all had to wake up upon our arrival in Sapa, I hardly realised what was going on and moved mechanically. It was still night outside, and I was half-asleep, but I vividly remember how cold it felt when I got off the bus, had to take my luggage, and then get on a small open minibus to reach our hotel. As soon as we arrived at the hotel, we went to our rooms and continued sleeping for maybe an hour or two more. Truthfully speaking, I had no idea where I was or what the place we had just arrived looked like, up until the next morning.
I packed a small backpack, had a shower, and headed straight for breakfast. I can’t say it was the best hotel breakfast I’ve had in my life, but the view from the top floor of the hotel was certainly one of the most spectacular I had ever seen. Lush green mountains topped by white fluffy clouds surrounded the candy-coloured buildings of the town, while valleys with rice terraces perched quietly along the mountain foothills. Sapa, a town located in the northern part of Vietnam near the borders with China, serves as a base for exploring the surrounding mountainous region and the nearby villages, most of which were inhabited by ethnic groups that migrated from China in the late 18th century.
After our stunning breakfast view, it was time to see the mountain peaks up close. Our first destination for the day was Fansipan Mountain, also known as ‘The Roof of Indochina,’ it is the highest mountain in Vietnam and the entire Indochina Peninsula, standing at an elevation of 3,147 metres above sea level. The easiest way to reach it is by the Fansipan Legend Cable Car, which takes visitors up to the summit in just 20 minutes, literally above the clouds towards the end. Needless to say, the surrounding views of the mountain range and the jungle below are literally jaw-dropping! Similar to the Bana Hills Cable Car, this cable car also holds a record for the world’s longest non-stop three-rope cable car. If you are more on the adventurous side, you can also reach the summit by trekking, as many tour operators in Sapa offer guided trekking tours to Fansipan summit.
Reaching Fansipan, you have the option to conquer the summit after climbing 600 steps or just take a cliff wagon. I chose the latter because it was all misty, and the possibility to admire the scenery was close to zero. Whether you decide to trek or take the cable car, the summit offers a memorable and rewarding experience for travellers, providing a sense of accomplishment. The mere feeling of being at one of the region’s highest peaks, together with travellers from all over the world, is really unforgettable. Moreover, Fansipan is considered a sacred mountain by various ethnic groups and is often associated with legends and myths, as well as being a place with strong spiritual energy. After taking loads of pictures to remember our great achievement, we descended the mountain to its lower plateaus, where we admired the Buddhist temples and giant Buddha statues. The misty weather added to the mystical atmosphere of the place.
We returned to Sapa for lunch, and then in the early afternoon, we met a group of local women in colourful traditional costumes who would guide us to our next highlight: exploring the villages and ethnic groups around Sapa. The women, some of them carrying their babies on their backs or large baskets with their own handicrafts, led us through narrow mountainous paths, rice terraces, and flower-covered landscapes on a roughly 12-kilometre trek to our next accommodation. Along the way, we crossed gurgling rivers, admired groups of water buffaloes relaxing in small ponds, went through villages with kids playing on their house’s porches, and also locals working in their fields waved at us. Overall, the scenery of this specific region was a photographer’s delight and reminded me of all those NatGeo documentaries I loved watching as a kid.
The weather was not on our side again, and as soon as we said goodbye to the lovely guides and continued to our accommodation, a tropical storm started pouring on our heads. We put on our raincoats, but in our need to cover ourselves, we ended up on the porch of the lady I described at the beginning of this article. The language barrier was not an obstacle for the kind lady as she helped us, a group of almost 15 people, soaking in the rain. She ushered us into her house and provided chairs for us until the storm passed. She then continued cooking and smiling, glancing at us every now and then, reminiscent of a mother caring for her children. We waited for some time in her kitchen, which also served as a living room, until we decided it was time to continue our trek before it got darker. We didn’t want to overdo our stay and abuse her kindness even though it continued pouring outside. The purity of her kindness and her magnanimity will forever remain etched in my memory.
The night had already fallen when we finally arrived at our accommodation, a homestay in Tả Van village. Upon arrival, we had a shower, some rest, and headed for dinner with our kind host, Mao. Mao was born and raised in the village and had never seen other parts of her country apart from pictures or the TV; the rest of the world for her was still shrouded in mystery. We had dinner in dim lighting so as to avoid a mosquito parade and towards the end of the night Mao offered us “Happy Water,” a local drink made of rice, clear as water but high in alcohol concentration. It didn’t stop raining for not even a minute during the whole night—a soothing sound, perfect for sleeping after a long day.
Did you know? Sapa and its region are home to a diverse array of ethnic minority groups, each playing a crucial role in weaving the area’s rich cultural tapestry. Among these unique communities are the H’mong, Red Dao, Giay, Tay, and Xa Pho, each with its own set of distinctive traditions, languages, and vibrant attire.
DAY 8 – NORTHERN VIETNAM – Ta Van village
The following day, the rain had finally ceased, and the peaks of the surrounding verdant hills were cloaked in a gentle fog. Following a light breakfast featuring pancakes, bananas, and dark coffee, we embarked on another exciting trek, this time around Ta Van village where we were staying. The place was truly charming, with locals vending fresh produce at pavement stalls, and women adorned in vibrant costumes. The entire area was enveloped in rich vegetation at every turn, orchids were casually decorating house gardens, while rows and rows of corn cobs were hanging from sticks to dry.
After relishing a delicious homemade lunch back at the homestay, we gathered our belongings and took the bus to another village of the area, Cat Cat Village. Celebrated for its traditional Hmong ethnic minority community, the village is adorned with enchanting wooden houses, bridges, a watermill, a waterfall, and numerous vibrant handicraft stalls showcasing the skillful artistry of its inhabitants. As we wandered through the narrow winding paths, we observed the daily routines of villagers as they engaged in age-old practices such as weaving, indigo dyeing, and silver crafting. Despite being more touristy than other villages we visited, it is still worth exploring due to its picturesque features, and the captivating costumes of the local people.
Caught in the rain once more, we took the bus and returned to Sapa, where we had the opportunity to do some shopping before boarding another sleeper bus that would take us back to Hanoi, just before midnight.
Important fact: Hospitality is the cornerstone of the local culture in Sapa, and many visitors find themselves welcomed into the homes of the ethnic minority communities through homestay experiences.
DAY 9 – NORTHERN VIETNAM – Halong Bay
Upon our arrival in Hanoi the next day, we immediately boarded another bus, this time heading to Halong Bay, one of the country’s most iconic natural wonders and a UNESCO-listed natural site. Renowned for its stunning seascape of emerald waters and thousands of limestone karsts and islets, Halong Bay covers an area of approximately 1,553 square kilometres, dotted with over 1,600 limestone formations scattered in the South China Sea. Many of these formations rise dramatically from the water, creating a surreal and picturesque panorama.
One of the best ways to experience Halong Bay is by taking a cruise from Tuan Chau Harbour. Thus, we boarded a mid-sized cruise ship where we would spend the entire day and the following half-day. The ship navigated slowly through a labyrinth of towering green karsts, occasionally revealing hidden caves and grottoes.
After lunch, various activities such as kayaking and swimming were planned, but I opted to sit on my room’s balcony and savour the serene scenery and mystic atmosphere that was unfolding before me. The cloudy weather didn’t entice me to swim anyway, but as night fell, the bay’s ever-changing scenery took on an eerie look. All the islets disappeared in the darkness, and the anchored cruise ships slowly illuminated the dark water, resembling a galaxy of stars. After dinner, we had the chance to try night squid fishing, though without any success.
Tip: the best way to explore Halong Bay is by a cruise. There is a wide range of options, from smaller, more intimate vessels to larger, luxury cruise liners. Smaller cruises are with 5 to 15 cabins, mid-sized cruises, with 15 to 30 cabins, and larger cruise ships, with 30 cabins or more.
DAY 10 – NORTHERN VIETNAM – Halong Bay – Dark and Light Cave
We had an early wake-up call to embark on another exciting activity, exploring one of the Bay’s most impressive locations. After enjoying the ship’s rich breakfast, accompanied by one of the best views in the country, we boarded a small boat that took us through the emerald islets and into a hidden, small floating fishing village with dozens of small wooden boats. It was time to visit the Dark and Light Cave in Lan Ha Bay. Halong Bay is home to several famous caves, such as Thien Cung Cave (Heavenly Palace Cave), Sung Sot Cave (Surprise Cave), and Dau Go Cave (Wooden Stakes Cave), but Dark and Light Cave is not as well-known yet, making it a great day of exploration while avoiding the crowds.
Aboard the boat, which could hardly fit six people, we left the small port and navigated through the stunning seascape. After a while, we came across a large white rock opening covered in rich vegetation – the Light Cave (Dark Cave is usually inaccessible to the public). As we entered the incredible 100 metres-long cave, it felt like entering a fantasy world shrouded in mystery and excitement. The cave is approximately 3 metres in height, 4 metres in width, and its height depends on the fluctuating tides. Inside, we passed centimetres below big stalagmites and peculiar formations that have developed over millions of years. Exiting the cave, we found ourselves in a small bay surrounded by more small islands, all covered in jungle vegetation.
Returning to the cruise ship, we had lunch and adequate time to relax on deck, finally enjoying the sun as the ship sailed through the towering limestone pillars and ethereal forest-covered islands back to the disembarkation point.
As soon as we arrived back on land in the afternoon, we boarded the bus once more to return to our hotel in Hanoi. The sun was still shining, so as soon as we were back, we went out exploring the city. Steeped in history and culture, Hanoi is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, vibrant street markets, and serene lakes. In the evening, we got our first taste of the city’s nightlife where street musicians in traditional clothing were performing live, while locals were enjoying a beer along with their dinner, sitting in low chairs in crowded yet charming alleys. We ended the night in one of the capital’s most famous clubs, 1900 – Le Theatre, under the DJ’s Vietnamese and K-Pop song beats, with a Tiger beer in hand.
Fun fact: Halong Bay is surrounded by local legends, one of which says that the bay was formed when a celestial dragon, sent by the Jade Emperor to protect the Vietnamese people from invaders, descended to earth. The dragon and its offspring spewed jewels and jade, which turned into the numerous karst islands and islets that dot the bay, creating a natural fortress against the invaders.
DAY 11 – NORTHERN VIETNAM – Hanoi
It was finally time to explore the country’s capital, Hanoi. We began with one of Vietnam’s most important sites, of particular significance to the local population – the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, housing the remains of “Uncle Ho,” as Ho Chi Minh is affectionately called. The grandiose Mausoleum, heavily influenced by Lenin’s Mausoleum in Moscow, is located in Ba Dinh Square and serves as the final resting place of Ho Chi Minh, the revolutionary leader and first President of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, who passed away in 1969. Thousands of visitors gather daily from all corners of Vietnam and beyond. Visitors are required to adhere to a strict code of conduct, which includes maintaining silence, removing hats, and dressing modestly. No pictures are allowed inside the heavily guarded mausoleum. It’s a dimly lit, large room where you have just a few minutes to pay homage or admire the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh before exiting into the fresh air.
As soon as you retrieve your camera and any other large belongings kept by the guards for safety reasons, you can visit the rest of the area’s sites, all related to the country’s great leader. The mausoleum is part of a larger complex that includes the Ho Chi Minh Museum, the Presidential Palace, the One Pillar Pagoda, and Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House, where he lived during the last years of his life. If you are interested in Vietnamese modern history, these sites will collectively offer you a comprehensive understanding of Ho Chi Minh’s life and Vietnam’s history during the last half of the 20th century.
We then walked through the city’s grand boulevards, crossed thousands of motorcycles, and within walking distance, we entered the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, also known as the Hanoi Citadel, another of Vietnam’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long served as the political centre of Vietnam for 13 consecutive centuries. Not as impressive as it may sound, as not many original structures have survived, but nonetheless, it is one of the nation’s most important cultural and historical sites. The key attractions are Doan Mon (Main Gate), the main entrance to the citadel topped by a yellow tower; the 33m tall Flag Tower (Ky Dai), a prominent symbol of Hanoi; the Kinh Thien Palace, also known as the Palace of Supreme Harmony; Hau Lau (Princess Pagoda), a beautiful structure surrounded by gardens believed to be a residence for princesses; D67 House and tunnel, once the headquarters of the Vietnamese People’s Army, featuring a connecting tunnel for emergency evacuation in case of an attack; and Bac Mon (North Gate), the other gate of the citadel that survived.
After a much-needed lunch, we had another iconic site to visit – or better said, to experience. You must have seen at least a video or two where a train literally passes a few centimetres from the houses of the local residents while shocked tourists are pressed against a wall. Hanoi’s Train Street is one of the city’s and maybe the country’s most popular experiences, known for its adrenaline-rushed close encounters with passing trains. Along the tracks, there are cafes where you can enjoy a coffee or lemonade, while waiting for the train to pass just centimetres away from your feet. It’s a slightly risky but entirely safe experience if you follow the café owners’ instructions.
After this thrilling and unique experience, we headed back to the Old Quarter, the real heart of Hanoi – a maze of narrow streets and alleys that has been the commercial hub of the city for centuries. Each street in the Old Quarter is traditionally dedicated to a specific trade, making it a fascinating area to explore on foot. Here, you can bargain with the shop owners for anything you’d like to buy. Bargaining is part of the culture, and prices will drop by almost half. We ended our walk at Hoan Kiem Lake, a picturesque body of water surrounded by parks and temples. The iconic red Huc Bridge connects the shore to Jade Island, home to the Ngoc Son Temple. The lake is a popular spot for locals and visitors alike, offering a peaceful escape from the urban bustle.
Fun Fact: Hanoi is renowned for its vibrant street food scene. The Old Quarter, in particular, offers an array of local delicacies, from pho (noodle soup) and bun cha (grilled pork with vermicelli) to egg coffee, a unique Hanoi specialty. Don’t miss trying Banh Mi, a delicious sandwich known for its fusion of flavours and textures.
DAY 12 – NORTHERN VIETNAM – Hoa Lu & Tam Coc
Our final day of this incredible journey was crowned by a memorable excursion to Hoa Lu city and Tam Coc. Hoa Lu is located in Ninh Binh Province, approximately 100 kilometres south of Hanoi, and served as Vietnam’s capital during the 10th and 11th centuries, playing a pivotal role in the country’s history by unifying and governing the nation. The journey from Hanoi took about 2 to 2.5 hours, and as soon as we reached this historical area, we joined a guided bike tour through the scenic countryside, enjoying unbelievable landscapes along the way.
The first capital of Vietnam is surrounded by the grandiose Trang An limestone mountains, not coincidentally as it provided protection from the nation’s enemies. While most of the ancient city’s buildings haven’t survived, visitors today can see stunning temples and tombs built in honour of emperors and other members of their Royal families. The most impressive monuments include the Gateway to the ancient capital connected by a charming bridge over a river reflecting the nearby green mountains, the Dinh Tien Hoang Temple dedicated to the first emperor of Vietnam that also includes the Half-moon Lake, the Le Dai Hanh Temple dedicated to a military leader who later became emperor, and Nhat Tru Pagoda, also known as One Pillar Pagoda (not to be confused with the more famous One Pillar Pagoda in Hanoi). The whole site is not vast and is easily explored on foot in a couple of hours. It’s perfect for a leisurely morning or afternoon walk that blends ancient Vietnamese architecture with amazing scenery.
We continued our bike ride through the breathtaking landscape of the region, where the simplicity and tranquillity of the rural scenery were a stark contrast to the historical richness we had just experienced. The Ngo Dong River and its tributaries winding their way through the landscape, as well as the towering limestone karst mountains that dominate the area, create a dramatic and breathtaking backdrop and add an otherworldly charm to the surrounding landscapes.
After lunch in a large restaurant offering a buffet with a variety of local delicacies, we headed to what was perhaps the trip’s most unforgettable excursion—the Tam Coc area. Often referred to as the “Halong Bay on Land,” it is part of the wider Hoa Lu region, and the landscape is punctuated by karst formations rising from the rice fields, probably the typical southeastern Asian vistas we Europeans see in paintings and movies. We arrived at Tam Coc Wharf, a pier where all boat journeys start, full of small colourful boats, and descended on a smooth ride through the calm river. Close to the riverbanks, thousands of water lilies floated, and in several instances, wild goats were climbing the tall limestone mountains. Moreover, in 1-2 instances, the boat went through dark low-ceiling caves (Tam Coc means Three Caves), to exit again back into the light and continue our boat ride through this tranquil fantasy world. I’m not sure if the ride took 1 or 2 hours, but it was definitely one to remember.
As the sun slowly descended and we still had another location to visit, we rushed back into the bus that took us to the Lying Dragon Mountain, just a few minutes’ drive from Tam Coc village. The mountain’s name comes from the massive jagged rock formations that stretch for miles along its spine, resembling a great dragon lying across the land. To support this name, an actual dragon statue was placed upon the spine of the mountain. To reach the dragon statue and admire the view, you need to take a 450-step pathway. About halfway up, you reach a middle platform where the trail divides into two. The path to the left leads to the Lying Dragon statue while the other trail leads to a pagoda, at a slightly lower elevation. Both trails can be done within an hour round trip, and I was lucky enough to reach the Lying Dragon viewpoint while the sun was setting. The orange and later on the purple colours of the sunset quickly painted the sky, which in turn reflected its colours on the large rice paddies and the river we had just floated on. The best ending to a wonderful day and the best ending to a life-changing trip.
Tip: Plan your Tam Coc boat ride during the early morning or late afternoon, for more comfortable temperatures and a less crowded journey. Don’t forget to bring a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water.
EPILOGUE
As I was watching the sun slowly descend below the horizon up on the Lying Dragon Mountain, casting a warm glow over the landscape, it dawned on me that this journey was more than just a collection of picturesque destinations—it was actually a transforming odyssey. The cultural immersion, the people I had met, the historical revelations, and the breathtaking landscapes, a tapestry of unforgettable experiences, left an indelible mark on my soul. Each step taken in the fast-paced cities, every pedal through the tranquil countryside, and the serene boat rides through calm rivers and enchanting caves, were threads in the fabric of my personal growth. This adventure not only broadened my horizons, but also deepened my appreciation for the rich tapestry of humanity and the wonders this world has to offer. The memories forged during this voyage will be a source of inspiration, and a testament to the transformative power of exploration and travelling. This trip was not just a journey across this mesmerising country; it was a profound spiritual exploration, a life altering experience, another stop on my own personal quest towards discovering the wonders of our world.
