48 Hours in Nicosia

Few cities in the world offer the unique experience of simultaneously hearing Byzantine chants and a muezzin’s call to prayer while enjoying a cup of coffee and watching the sunset. Whether you find this phenomenon fascinating or merely a bit odd, Nicosia is a city where you can easily witness it firsthand.

Nicosia, officially known as Lefkosia/Lefkoşa, is situated almost at the heart of Cyprus and boasts a 4500-year history, making it one of the world’s oldest capitals. Having served as the capital of this small island-state for over a millennium, it embodies a rich cultural blend, reflecting the island’s turbulent past spanning 11,000 years. Despite being Europe’s last divided capital, Nicosia is a vibrant city with many interesting historical landmarks where modernity beautifully blends with antiquity.

For a taste of its rich cultural and gastronomic tapestry, follow my 48-hour itinerary, which I’ve divided into two areas: inside and outside the walled city, respectively.

DAY 1 – INSIDE THE WALLS

Morning: Begin your day like a local by savoring a cup of Cypriot coffee at “Tria Fanaria”, one of the city’s oldest traditional confectioneries, while admiring the beautiful neoclassical facade of “Faneromeni School”. Don’t miss the chance to try a savory pastry such as “halloumoti” or “eliopitta”; trust me, you won’t regret it. The Faneromeni area, where the confectionery is located, is one of the city’s most popular spots, with numerous cafes and restaurants surrounding the “Panagia Faneromeni Church”.

Begin your exploration by walking through Onasagorou street to visit the “Leventis Municipal Museum” (free-entry) in “Laiki Geitonia” and discover the city’s fascinating past, from antiquity to the 21st century. Continue your walk to reach “Eleftheria Square” now connecting the old city to its modern side, and get your first taste of the 16th-century Venetian walls, its bastions, and moat, as well as Zaha Hadid’s modern recreation of the capital’s most famous square.

Late morning: Head back to the old town or walk along the walls until you reach the “Monument of Liberty” where life-size statues showcase the GreekCypriot armed struggle against the British colonial rule and Union with Greece. Facing the monument at 200m you can spot the imposing “Archbishop’s Palace”, where close by you can spend some time at the “Byzantine Museum”, which houses the country’s largest collection of religious art. Adjacent to the museum is the small but magnificent “Agios Ioannis Cathedral” that bears some stunning frescoes. For more culture, visit “The Centre for Visual Arts and Research (CVAR)” in Ermou Street, which houses a unique collection of paintings and artifacts highlighting the island’s multicultural past. 

“Ermou” and “Ektoros” streets have become a hub for coffee shops, bars, and artists’ workshops, so don’t miss the chance to have a look while you’re in the area. If you have a sweet tooth, go to “To Apomero” cafe and order the homemade “Portokalopitta” (orange phyllo pie) or “Galaktoboureko”, freshly made by the cafe’s owner Mrs Androulla. Every bookworm ought to check out ‘To Erma,’ a bookshop-cafe featuring a delightful garden. Here, you can unwind with a coffee or refreshing lemonade while immersing yourself in your favourite book..

Take some time to explore the colourful streets of the surrounding “Taktakalas” (or Taht-el-kale) neighborhood, once one of the city’s biggest religiously mixed neighbourhoods. Continue through Ermou street a bit to the south to reach the imposing “Famagusta Gate” the largest and most beautiful of the walls’ three gates. Right across the gate, you can see “SPEL-The State Gallery of Contemporary Art” which usually hosts modern exhibitions and other events.

Lunch: Lunch with the locals in a “Mageirio” and taste home-cooked style dishes. Try “Evroula,” located inside Klokkaris arcade, which connects Ledra and Onasagorou streets or “Mathaios,” in the square behind Faneromeni Church.

Late afternoon: Stroll around Ledra and Onasagorou streets and stop at one of the street-side cafes at Faneromeni area for a coffee or local beer, and some people-watching. “Kala Kathoumena” and “Halara” are some of the most popular spots in the square and are usually full of youngsters and local artists alike. If you are lucky, usually during sunset, you can hear the priest from the nearby Faneromeni church chanting and the muezzin from Selimiye Mosque (Agia Sophia Cathedral) calling to prayer at the same time. 

While in the area, visit “Phaneromenis 70” a shop with various items from local artists ranging from coffee coasters and vases to t-shirts and bags.

Evening: It’s dinner time, and you can’t leave Cyprus without trying “Mezedes”. Go to a local tavern and order “Cyprus meze” – a feast consisting of 15-20 small dishes. You will easily fall in love with “Halloumi” – the famous local squeaky cheese, the delicious and nutritious “Tahini” dip, and “Sheftalia” – a seasoned minced meat roll. You can try “Zanettos,” one of the city’s oldest taverns, “Agios Georgios“, a small cozy restaurant near the Old Municipal Market now a Research and Innovation Centre of Excellence (CYENS), or “Berlin Wall”, a kebab house with a very local vibe, bearing a very suitable name as it is located right by the Green Line that divides the city in two. 

In case you want to have a special live-music experience while having dinner, head to “Tsipouraki Mezedaki” close to Famagusta Gate or have a bite and enjoy some live music in “Mousikon” in Onasagorou Street. Don’t forget to order a bottle of local wine, as Cyprus is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world.

Nightout: Wrap the day at “Brewfellas,” a charging hub serving all kinds of beers from Cyprus and around the world, or try “Pic Nic”, a bar/restaurant housed in a beautiful restored 18th-century mansion adjacent to the Green Line. You can discover how the locals dance the night out at “Cafe Mercedes” at the end of Ledra Street or at “Patio”, another bar-restaurant located in the indoor garden of an old house in Alexander Street, close to Ledra Street.

Interesting fact: Almost everything of historical interest lies within the unique star-shaped 16th-century Venetian walls, an area known to locals as “Palia Poli” (Old City) or “Hora” to the older generations.

DAY 2 – OUTSIDE THE WALLS

Morning: Brunch has been trending strong for more than a decade in the city, so take your chances at one of the contemporary cafe-restaurants that offer brunch dishes inspired by the local and international cuisine such as “Zest at Pinakothiki”, conveniently located at the ground floor of Leventis Gallery, “Artigiano” in Stasikratous Street, “Henry’s” at Makariou Avenue, “Nom” at Stasandrou Street or “Silver Pot” at Themistoklis Dervis Street.

Late Morning: Walk along the city walls and pass outside “Pafos Gate”, one of the 3 ancient city gates, to reach “The Cyprus Museum” (free-entry), the largest archaeological museum on the island. Only a few meters away from the Cyprus Museum and across the street, you can admire the facade of the “Municipal Theatre” and later enjoy a tranquil walk at the nearby “Municipal Gardens”. If you are more into the Fine Arts, visit “Leventis Gallery” a private art gallery (ticket at the entrance) which houses a collection of over 800 paintings from Cypriot, Greek, and European artists such as Renoir, Canaleto, Signac, Monet, and Chagall just to name a few.

Lunch: You’ll definitely be hungry after your walk, so try “Valtou rigani” for souvlaki and other selected fresh cuts of meat cooked on charcoal, or “Pyxida” for the ultimate fish experience. If you are vegan we’ve got you covered as “Elysian” is the city’s best plant-based restaurant. Alternatively for a Cypriot twist, you can visit “Maeirko” in Agios Antonios Municipal Market.

Afternoon: Go to Makarios and Stasikratous streets for some shopping or simply to enjoy a coffee in one of many newly-established coffee shops and bakeries of these recently revamped streets. If you want to take back home some local herbs, spices, olives, and other Cypriot products, try “Bakali”, a Healthy Food Store in Mpoumpoulinas street.

Evening: If you haven’t had enough mezedes last night, have them again this time round with live Greek popular music at “Mezostrati” in Evagorou Street close to Eleftheria Square. During summertime you can also visit “Balza,” a beautiful rooftop bar and restaurant overlooking the Square. For more food options you can walk along Stasandrou and Pindarou streets which have numerous restaurants for all tastes. Two of my favourites are “Beba” and “Cookshop.”

NightOut: Go for a drink or two at “Bar Souvenir” in Makarios Street or “Blurry Lights” at Mikinon street, one of the city’s newest street bars. “Zonkey” is more for  dancing crowds, especially in its indoor area. If you are more the cocktail-type person, “Lost n Found” which was named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars is the place to be. Alternatively, enjoy some chill drinks at “Silver Star” and mingle with Nicosians under the citrus trees. If you are more into the non-commercial underground music then “Sllip” is a must, but go late at night as it stays open until the early morning hours.

Fun fact: if you are visiting during summertime don’t be surprised to find the city rather empty. Due to the heat, locals tend to go out and about after sunset. You’ll experience a totally different town in the morning and at night.

It’s always hard when you have to portray your own city and of course I could mention countless landmarks, attractions, bars and restaurants that couldn’t fit in just one list. Nonetheless, I believe this is a pretty concise short-list of things to see and do in Nicosia, that one can easily do on foot and get a good feel of both the history of the city as well as experience the capital as a local would. If you plan to  visit any of the  Museums and Galleries, keep in mind that you may not have enough time to see every spot mentioned in the article. 

I wish you a great time in my city!

Additional Tips

• You can join a FREE guided city tour in English, that covers most of the things mentioned above. Check the link for more info: Nicosia Guided Tours
• Consider renting a bike to explore the entirety of the Venetian walls for a more active option. Try Next Bike