Aegean Blues

I have always been fascinated by ships and everything related to the open seas. Perhaps it’s the sense of freedom one experiences while sailing, the ephemeral relief from worries, or the thrill of discovering something new. It could also be the captivating shades of blue of the sky and sea.

For quite some time, I have been yearning to step onboard a cruise ship again. So when Celestyal invited me for a 3-day cruise in the Aegean, I didn’t hesitate for a second. The cruise, aptly named ‘Iconic Aegean Summer – 3 Nights,’ departs from Lavrion, one of the three ports located near Athens. Its itinerary includes 5 stops in some of the Aegean’s most idyllic destinations: Mykonos, Kusadasi, Patmos, Heraklion, and Santorini.

After flying from Cyprus to Greece, my anticipation grew stronger as I approached the boarding point. Moreover, I had almost forgotten how much less troublesome port control checks are compared to airport security checks. Following a welcoming drink and a planned safety drill for all passengers, the cruise ship set sail from Lavrion at around 13:00.

The first stop on our cruise was Mykonos, with ample time to explore, since the ship arrived at 18:00 and departed at 23:00, we set off to visit one of the world’s most renowned island destinations. Stepping foot on this famous windswept Greek island, it becomes evident why it attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the world each year and has earned the nickname ‘the Manhattan of the Aegean.’ Offering beautiful beaches, stunning architecture, world-class entertainment and service, fashionable shopping, and the chance to spot celebrities up close, Mykonos is an island that should not be missed.

While on the island, you have the option to explore at your own pace or take advantage of the excursions offered by Celestyal. Regardless of your choice, make sure to visit two of the island’s must-see attractions: the Mykonos Windmills and Little Venice (Mikri Venetia). The windmills are iconic symbols of Mykonos, with the most famous ones located in Chora, the island’s capital. Built in the 16th century by the Venetians to grind wheat and barley, today they serve as a reminder of Mykonos’ almost-forgotten agricultural past. These traditional windmills, standing tall against the azure sky, offer panoramic views that are truly breathtaking, showcasing the sparkling sea, whitewashed houses, and winding streets. Don’t forget to capture this memorable moment by snapping a  photo with these emblematic structures.

Known as ‘Little Venice,’ this charming row of houses dates back to the mid-18th century. Located along Chora’s waterfront, these houses feature picturesque balconies that “hang” over the water. The vibrant colours adorning their doors, windows, and balconies, in total contrast with the rest of the island’s buildings, are a testament to the Venetian influence that has shaped the Aegean region’s history.

Needless to say, witnessing the sun setting from either of these two iconic sites in Mykonos is a truly magical experience. Alternatively, you can always enjoy a drink or a meal at one of the seaside’s numerous bars and restaurants. While walking back to the ship, the trembling lights of Chora reflecting on the calm sea were a unique experience. After a refreshing shower and some rest, we had the opportunity to enjoy exceptional performances by a group of incredibly talented dancers during one of the many free shows provided onboard.

To be completely honest, I had never heard of the port-city of Kusadasi before. However, I was well aware of the ancient city of Ephesus, located around 18 km north of Kusadasi, which happened to be Celestyal’s next stop after Mykonos. So, if you are a history buff like me, I highly recommend purchasing the Ephesus excursion offered onboard before your arrival. The ship arrives early in the morning in Kusadasi and departs at noon.

Ephesus is widely acknowledged  as one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world, attracting approximately 3 million visitors each year. Founded as an Attic-Ionian colony in the 10th century BC, it flourished during Roman times, becoming the 4th largest city of the Empire with over 250,000 inhabitants. The city’s historical prominence included the nearby Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. 

During my visit, I had the opportunity to admire other monumental structures up close, such as the Library of Celsus, the third-largest library in the Greco-Roman world, and the Ephesus theatre, which could accommodate up to 24,000 spectators. It is no surprise that the entire site has been added to the UNESCO World Heritage sites list in  2015. I must confess that, alongside Pompeii in Italy and Petra in Jordan, Ephesus ranks amongst the most impressive ancient sites I’ve ever visited.

After the excursion to Ephesus, the bus will take you back to Kusadasi, so make sure to visit the bazaar, a bustling marketplace where you can immerse yourself in the vibrant sights, sounds, and aromas. Here, you’ll find a treasure trove of local handicrafts, spices, textiles, and souvenirs, making it an ideal place to pick up unique mementos of your visit. Take a moment to savour the flavour of local cuisine at one of the many inviting restaurants and cafes. Indulge in traditional delicacies such as kebabs and baklava. Don’t forget to accompany your meal with a cup of tea or perhaps the strong and aromatic coffee, as we did.

After a few hours of sailing, at around 16:30, we arrived at Greece’s ‘sacred’ island, Patmos. Renowned worldwide for its religious legacy as the place where John the Evangelist wrote the Book of Revelation, Patmos is a beautiful, small island that exudes a strong spiritual atmosphere and has tons of natural beauty. The ship docked at Skala, the island’s port, and the organised excursion took us to the island’s two main sites: the Monastery of Saint John in Chora and the Cave of the Apocalypse, situated halfway between Chora and Skala.

Chora, the island’s capital and one of its most picturesque villages, showcases the traditional architecture of whitewashed houses and narrow paved alleys. Offering breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, a charming paved street lined with numerous shops and cafes leads you to the Monastery of Saint John, perched on a hill overlooking Chora. The monastery is an impressive fortified structure, housing a small church adorned with stunning frescoes and a captivating museum-sacristy, displaying rare artefacts, some of which dating back to the 5th century AD.

The Cave of the Apocalypse is believed to be the place where Saint John was inspired to write the Book of Revelation, the final book of the Bible. It is said that during his exile, Saint John recorded his visions in this eerie cave with the assistance of his disciple Prohorus. Today, the cave is surrounded by small chapels and monastic cells, forming an intriguing architectural ensemble that has attracted Christian pilgrims for centuries. Notably, in 1999, UNESCO recognized Patmos’ historic centre (Chora), the Monastery of Saint John, and the Cave of the Apocalypse as a World Heritage Site.

As I strolled through the streets of Chora and Skala, I couldn’t help but be mesmerised by the island’s distinctive Cycladic architecture and, above all, the sense of tranquillity and serenity that permeates the air. While awaiting our embarkation in Skala, we indulged in a nice cold coffee and a local cheese pie at one of the town’s cosy cafes.

Early the next morning, we docked in Heraklion, the capital city of Crete. I was in the city many years ago so it was a pleasure to revisit it and especially because that day’s excursion took us to the ancient site of Knossos. 

Knossos was the capital of the legendary king Minos and the main centre of the Minoans, an ancient Aegean civilization that existed in Crete and the surrounding islands in the Bronze age, from around 3500 BC to around 1100 BC, when it ceased to exist. Minoans represent the first advanced civilization in Europe and they were known as great traders around the Mediterranean Sea. They were also known for building large and elaborate palaces with plumbing systems and colourful frescoes.

Knossos has been called Europe’s oldest city and the excavations that started in 1900 under Sir Arthur Evans, revealed a palace and surrounding buildings in a multistory structure, divided into several sections, each of which with a separate use, decorated in many parts with magnificent murals depicting possibly religious ceremonies. It was my second time visiting the site, but exploring it with a professional guide provided a totally different and exciting experience that I really enjoyed.

As our wake up call was early in the morning, when we headed back to Heraklion we had to have a snack and a coffee to wash it down. We tried a variety of pies such as spanakopita, tiropita, bougatsa and loukoumades at Philosophies cafe overlooking the famous Morosini fountain in Lion’s square. Satiated and pleased  with a few cherished souvenirs in hand, we boarded the ship, ready for the next chapter of our journey.

After a delicious lunch on board and some much-needed rest, the renowned and iconic island of Santorini emerged on the horizon. Santorini, one of Greece’s most recognizable destinations, truly holds a special allure. Its world-famous sunsets, iconic architecture, and breathtaking cliff views overlooking the sea make it truly a sight out of this world. Let’s be honest here, who hasn’t dreamed of visiting Santorini?

We hopped onto a small boat that transported us from our cruise ship to the island, and a bus then took us to our first stop: Venetsanos Winery. This beautiful winery was built in 1947 and it was Santorini’s first industrial winery. The setting itself, with its magnificent Caldera views, was truly outstanding. Accompanied by some local cheeses, we indulged in tasting five different wines, all crafted from indigenous grape varieties. Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani, Platani, Mavrotragano, and Mandilaria, which are the most common grape varieties cultivated in the historic vineyards of Venetsanos Winery.

Feeling a bit tipsy from the magnificent wine, we continued our journey to Oia, a scenic village located on the northwest edge of the island and running along the northern edge of the Caldera. Oia holds the title of the ultimate spot for sunset viewing, thanks to its cliffside location and panoramic view of the Santorini volcano. Moreover, the village itself is idyllic, with white-washed houses, blue-domed churches and vibrant bougainvillaeas cascading from pots and overhanging walls, it’s every photographer’s dream place. 

But the best part was yet to come, watching the sun going down, sinking into the shimmering sea behind the characteristic houses of the island, was a once in a lifetime experience. It was as if the entire island paused whatever it was doing to watch the sunset. I was awestruck by the sight of so many people gathered in every available space, all enthralled  by the captivating sunset. Being part of this magical experience was truly unforgettable.

The Santorini sunset marked the perfect ending to our three-day cruise, although it wasn’t truly the end, as a lush dinner was waiting for us back on the ship. A six-course dining menu, crafted by the award-winning celebrity chef Diane Kochilas, was the cherry on the cake of this trip. Diane has curated this Greek dining experience to highlight the best of the region’s authentic flavours, featuring local and regional ingredients from many of the island’s that Celestyal visits. Describing it in one word would be impossible; it was simply a symphony  of tastes.  

The following morning, we arrived in Lavrion at 6 am, and completely overwhelmed by the cruise experience, I had completely forgotten that our flight to Cyprus was waiting for us at Greece’s busiest airport, Eleftherios Venizelos. Nonetheless, since we were flying with Aegean Airlines, we had the chance to relax and unwind in its brand new Extra Schengen business lounge. Aegean’s new lounge, spanning over 1200m2, is the perfect place to relax prior to your departure, quietly enjoy a coffee or drink, and sample something from the wide variety of treats or hot and cold dishes, away from the bustle of the airport concourse. I especially loved the availability of electronic device chargers in all areas, the free high-speed internet access, as well as the complimentary daily press available for every guest.

Honestly, I didn’t want to leave this super nice lounge, but as all good things come to an end, we embarked on the plane and headed back home, back to reality. This time, accompanied by a handful of new friends, a camera full of cherished memories, and a heart filled with gratitude. Three days were more than enough to visit two countries, explore five unique destinations, and partake in a variety of experiences and activities.

As I write this, I must confess that I’m already tempted to check on the itinerary of Celestyal’s ‘3 Continents – 7 Days’ cruise that sets sail from and returns to the port of Limassol, Cyprus. Who wants to join me?