Marrakech, Land of God
You know that a place is going to be good, when it managed to give its name to the whole country in most languages, and indeed Marrakech didn’t fail to impress me for a second. Marrakech is an enchanting place, full of history and culture, charm and wonder, and is abundant with pleasantly unexpected experiences.
Nicknamed the Red City due to its terracotta-coloured architecture, Marrakech was founded almost a thousand years ago and it is one of the four imperial cities of Morocco (the historical capital cities of the country). Even though the exact meaning of its name is debated, the most popular and my personal favourite explanation, is that it derives from the Berber phrase “murr akush” which means “the Land of God”.
Marrakech today might be only the fourth largest city of Morocco, but it is however a true gem located in the heart of the country. The city’s prime location at the centre of the fertile Haouz Plain, the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, close to Ouarzazate (gateway to the Sahara Desert) and the port city of Essaouira, has transformed it into a significant trading hub. Its strategic position combined with its role as the kingdom’s capital in the 10th and 16th centuries, contributed to the city’s wealth in remarkable monuments and landmarks. The most important ones are located inside the Medina, so you can easily explore them on foot.
WHAT NOT TO MISS
This is my pick of the very best things to see and do in Marrakech.
The Medina
A medina in the North African world is the old historic part of a town, which is usually surrounded by walls and is generally car-free, due to its narrow and maze-like alleys. The 700 hectares of Marrakech Medina was included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1985, due to its impressive collection of significant monuments. The centre and main attraction of the Medina is the Jemaa El Fna Square, where the city’s heart beats and also where the souks begin to spread through many winding streets. Apart from the various historical monuments, Marrakech Medina is an attraction of its own, so simply start wandering in its labyrinthian streets and enjoy a unique experience, ageless and exotic in every sense. Yes, you will, undoubtedly, get lost so have an offline map on your phone ready.
Note: If you accept directions from strangers, expect them to eventually ask you for money.
Jemaa El Fna
The vast open square of Jemaa El Fna which lies in the centre of the Medina, is without question one of the city’s most impressive attractions. Be prepared to get absolutely dumbfounded, for here is where you’ll experience the closest thing to the One Thousand and One Nights Tales. Life at the square starts early in the morning with locals setting their fruit stalls, but after sunset the square transforms into a magical theatre with acrobats, musicians, snake charmers, fortune tellers and henna artists around every turn. Wander around the square and head up to one of the countless surrounding rooftop restaurants, to watch the sun set behind the city’s minarets and countless terraces.
Note: at Jemaa El Fna avoid the snake charmers and monkey entertainers, apart from the fact that they will eventually ask for money, their animals are badly mistreated. Similarly beware of the henna ladies, some of them will drag you and start making the henna as a “gift”, but will eventually charge you for it. Most importantly the ink they’re using is not the genuine henna material (traditional henna is reddish-brown), but a quick-dry chemical that can irritate your skin.
Marrakech Souks
A souk (or souq) is essentially a marketplace, and Marrakech Souk is the largest in Morocco. The main market streets are Souk El Kebir and Souk Semmarine and they begin at the northern part of Jemaa El Fna and spread through numerous passageways and streets, finishing at the Marrakech Museum. Spices, pottery, jewellery, lanterns, food and many more local products can be found in this winding labyrinth of narrow alleyways packed with market stalls and shops. The best time to visit the souks is in the morning, since most shops will gradually start closing in late afternoon.
Note: in Marrakech, as well as generally in Morocco, it is quite typical and expected to bargain at shops. As a general rule visitors should not pay more than 1/3 of the asking price.
Koutoubia Mosque
Marrakech’s most important mosque was first completed in 1158 and its name means Mosque of the Booksellers, due to the numerous booksellers that surrounded the Mosque when it was built. The highlight of the mosque is beyond question its magnificent minaret that stands at nearly 226ft (70m) high and it is the highest structure in the whole city. Koutoubia minaret is a point of reference for international architecture and as such, is the prototype for Seville’s Giralda and it’s a monumental cheat sheet of Moorish ornamental art. Unfortunately, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the Koutoubia Mosque, so all they can do is admire its exterior. Don’t miss visiting the beautiful gardens that unfold at the back of the mosque. You can find the mosque just opposite Jemaa El Fna Square.
Ben Youssef Madrasa
A madrasa – also spelled madrassah or madrasah – means school and in general madrassas taught calculus, grammar, poetry, history and religious studies. Ben Youssef Madrasa was founded during the 14th century, re-constructed in 1565 and transformed into a museum in 1960. It could accommodate over 900 students and it offered 130 rooms for non-Marrakesh students over 2 floors. Ben Youssef Madrasa used to be one of the largest and most important theological colleges in North Africa. The highlight of the madrasa is its magnificent interior patio, which is adorned with exquisitely carved cedar wood, elegant stucco and colourful zellige tiles. The best view of this oriental architectural masterpiece can be seen from the student rooms at the second floor.
Bahia Palace
Bahia Palace is a magnificent example of 19th century Moroccan architecture, spreading over 8 hectares in the city’s medina. The Bahia Palace was commissioned by the Grand Vizier Ahmed ben Moussa in 1894 and Fez craftsmen were brought to work on the palace and its gardens which took almost 15 years to complete. This monumental palace features 150 rooms, beautiful indoor gardens, intricate marquetry, stained glass windows and stunning zouak (painted wood) cedar ceilings, that will not fail to impress even the most demanding traveller.
Jardin Majorelle
Originally created by the French orientalist painter Jacques Majorelle, the Jardin Majorelle is an Eden-like botanical garden and building complex, extending over 9,000 m². Created over the course of 40 years, the garden started taking shape in 1923, when the French painter began planting exotic species, from all over the world. The garden and the artist’s studio were largely abandoned after the painter had to sell the house and land in the 50s, but thankfully in 1980, Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, purchased it and undertook its restoration maintaining the original vision of Jacques Majorelle. Apart from the magnificent garden, visitors can explore the garden’s buildings which host the Islamic Art Museum of Marrakech, the Berber Museum, a cafe and a shop.
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
Literally adjacent to Jardin Majorelle, you can find one of the two museums in the world dedicated to the life and work of the famous French fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent (the other museum can be found in Paris). Opened in 2017 and covering an area of 4,000 m2, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent comprises an exhibition hall featuring the fashion legend’s work, temporary exhibition halls, an auditorium, a gift shop and a bookstore. The museum’s architecture is quite extraordinary too. Both Jardin Majorelle and the Musée YSL are located outside the medina and you can get a combined ticket for both of them.
MORE PLACES TO VISIT
If you have time, visit the 16th-century Saadian Tombs located near the Kasbah mosque and discover the impressive mausoleum of Saadian sultan Ahmad al-Mansur and the beautifully decorated tombs of 60 other members of the Saadi dynasty.
Explore the El Badi Palace and take a journey back in time. The 300-room palace was built in the late 16th century and what remains today of the once magnificent palace, is an enormous patio surrounded by monumental ruins and reflecting pools. Don’t miss walking up the surrounding high walls to have one of the best views of Marrakech.
If you are looking for an alternative to the traditional lifestyle of the medina, visit Gueliz or Ville Nouvelle as it is known. Gueliz is essentially the modern part of Marrakech which developed during the French protectorate and is characterized by wide leafy boulevards, outdoor cafes and restaurants, international chain shops and modern art galleries.
ACCOMODATION
Forget about resort hotels. Get a room in a Riad! Riads are historic Moroccan houses that have been renovated into beautiful guesthouses. A Riad is usually 2 or 3 floors high and the rooms surround an inner garden. These establishments are often run by locals and breakfast is typically included in the room price. There are plenty of Riads hidden inside the Medina (about 1,500 in Marrakech) in different styles, suitable for every budget and can be booked online.
RESTAURANTS
Is better if you pre-book online for your meals, so that you don’t have to look around the city for a good restaurant. Two very good restaurants with quality food and beautiful environment are “Le Jardin” and “Nomad”. Le Jardin has a beautiful indoor courtyard with a lush garden and the Nomad offers some amazing views over the city of Marrakech through its various terraces.
HOW TO MOVE AROUND
If you are staying in the medina you will need nothing more than your feet to move around (no cars are allowed inside the medina anyway). If you have to travel outside the medina you can take a taxi (beige petits taxis) but don’t forget to bargain the price. Taxis are parked near train stations and popular tourist sites such as the Jemaa El Fna. Grand taxis (large taxis) are shared taxis that carry up to 6 passengers and serve longer routes between towns. Renting a car is also an option if you are ok with stressful driving, or you can simply take the public bus which is a better and much safer option.
CLOSING NOTE
Following the 11-day Casablanca Conference in January 1943, a crucial period that determined the course of World War II, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill who had a deep affection for Marrakech, insisted that US President Franklin Roosevelt would join him on a 2-day excursion to Marrakech: “simply the nicest place on Earth to spend an afternoon” Churchill said. And so they did. The US president was astonished by the Red City. Undoubtedly Marrakech has been seducing visitors throughout the ages, and surely deserves a top spot on your travel bucket list.
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