Europe,  The Stories

Kalavasos, the perfect autumn escape

As fall is upon us and temperatures are decreasing, I believe it’s time for an exciting autumn escape. One of the best places in Cyprus to discover during autumn is Kalavasos village. 

Nestled in the hills of Larnaka region, Kalavasos is mostly known for the archaeological site of Kalavasos-Tenta. Aside from its long history, Kalavasos is a charming little village with a bunch of cool activities and interesting sites to discover. 

What I really love about Kalavasos, apart from the fact that it is conveniently located almost at the same distance from the island’s three main cities (Limassol, Nicosia, Larnaka), it’s that it has a beautiful stone-paved square surrounded with little shops and restaurants. What’s more, most of the village’s alleys are flooded with blooming flower pots, while its main square transforms into a big outdoor feast during nighttime, when all the restaurants spread their tables and groups of people sit side by side.

Kalavasos square

ATTRACTIONS

Apart from its photogenic alleys, Kalavasos is not short on attractions. The main site of interest is the church of Panagia Titiotissa, which is located in the centre of the village, right next to the square. Dating back to 1878, the church took its name due to the ‘Tetios’ river, a previous name of Vasilikos river that flows in the area. There is a beautiful 16th-century two-sided icon on the iconostasis of the church, which depicts the Virgin Mary on the front, and the Crucifixion on the back. 

According to local tradition, Tetios river was renamed Vasilikos, when Saint Helen, mother of Emperor Constantine the Great, during her trip back to Constantinople after the discovery of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem, rested by the river banks. Thus, the river changed its name to “Vassilikos”, which means Royal.

Panagia Titiotissa Church

Close to Panagia Titiotissa church, the well-preserved Kalavasos mosque is a fine example of Christian and Muslim coexistence in the village, before the intercommunal violence eruption during the ’60s and ’70s. The mosque was constructed during the late 19th century and it has a beautiful and unique minaret that bears symbols from the three monotheistic religions, Islam, Judaism and Christianity. 

Kalavasos Mosque

Mines and quarry

Even though there are traces of mining activity in the region that date back to the Phoenicians and Romans, recent mining activity for the excavation of copper-bearing ores in Kalavasos started in 1937 and ended in 1978. There used to be five mines operating in the area and are known by the names of “Platies”, “Petra”, “Mavri Sykia”, “Lantaria”, and “Mavridia”. The excavated ore from Kalavasos mines was transferred via railway to Vasiliko harbour. A total of 5.5 million tons of ore were mined during 1937-1978, while the export of ore surpassed 3 million. Even though the mines remain shut and abandoned today, it’s not difficult to visit them, at least on the outside. The Kalavasos mines are located about 6km northwest of the village.

Kalavasos Train

Coming to Kalavasos from the Nicosia-Limassol motorway, you will come across a nice park with a kids playground (“Maria” Community Park) but right next to it, there is something very unique, at least for Cyprus. There is a train, a mining train, placed on a small bridge. The train is a memorabilia of the area’s mining history, as it was used to transport ore from local mines to Vasilikos port up until 1978. 

Interesting fact: the only other train-related equipment you can spot is a Locomotive which is placed in front of the train station in Famagusta and a hand pump truck and a freight wagon at the Cyprus Railway Museum in Evrychou.

Kalavasos Train

Kalavasos-Tenta 

The archaeological site of Kalavasos-Tenta is located on a natural hill, a short drive from Kalavasos. It is one of the most significant Neolithic settlements on the island and is quite notable as it is covered by a cone-shaped roof that can be seen from the highway. Kalavasos-Tenta was discovered in 1947 and archaeologists unearthed circular buildings, built of stone or with rough-hewn stones in the lower part of the walls and mud-bricks above. Moreover, during excavations, Cyprus’ earliest wall painting was also discovered, a painted red figure with raised hands, dating back to the early 7th century BC. Today, underneath the large tent, visitors can walk along the wooden walkway and view the findings below. Together with Choirokoitia, Kalavasos-Tenta provides evidence for the first establishment of sedentary communities on the island, which originated from the neighbouring mainland.

Kalavasos-Tenta archaeological site

ACTIVITIES

Cycling

Whether you are a cycling fanatic or you just want to leisurely explore the surrounding area, Kalavasos is the perfect place for you. The roads are quiet, well-paved and offer magnificent views of the surrounding hills and mountains. If you are not bringing your own bike, then you can always pop at Matthias Bike Corner, a shop close to the village’s square, that rents bikes for all types of cycling enthusiasts. The owner Matthias, a lovely German expat that moved recently to the village with his family, was kind enough to take us for a lovely tour around the village surroundings, and see first-hand the mines, Kalavasos dam, as well as some phenomenal rock formations, that were well hidden behind pine trees.

Cycling at Kalavasos mines

Beach

If the weather is still warm and you want to hit the beach, then you can try either Zygi Public Beach which is only 7km away, or Governor’s Beach 8km from the village.

THINGS TO TAKE BACK HOME

If you want to take something local back home with you, there are several small shops with local art and produce spread around the village. Katana wood art has some beautiful jewellery and artwork made mostly of wood. You can also find local goods in the shop, such as herbs, olive oil, preserved sweets and honey. Gaia Olea, a recent addition to the village, has handmade aromatherapy and herbal products such as soaps, balms, lotions and other skincare and wellness products, all made with natural ingredients. Michalis Mozzoras Art Gallery located in a magnificent old rural house, is a unique space full of beautiful creations made entirely from sea pebbles of all colours and shapes. This place is a must-visit, even just to see all the mesmerizing creations that are scattered around the house’s backyard. 

ACCOMMODATION

Larnaka region is acknowledged as the heart of Cyprus agrotourism and Kalavasos couldn’t be an exception. It offers 6 different options to assure a lovely stay. I chose to stay at Charalambos Holiday Cottage, an elegant restored 1890s mansion that offers self-catering accommodation, and an on-site swimming pool. The business is family-owned and the host Simoni, must be one of the friendliest persons in the whole village. The cottage has a handful of independent apartments, each one fully equipped with a small kitchen, bathroom, air conditioning, free WiFi and a TV with both local and international channels.

Charalambos Holiday Cottage

Whether you are staying on-site or not, but you are looking for some self-pampering, then you can visit The Library Hotel & Wellness Resort where you can elevate your spirit while letting specialists take care of your body’s well-being at the Potamonde Wellness Baths. All accommodation can be easily booked through the Cyprus Agrotourism Company website.

GASTRONOMY

There are three different taverns/restaurants in the village, all located at the main square, close to the church. You can enjoy traditional mezedes or breakfast under the luscious passion fruit canopy at George Restaurant Café/Taverna, a selection of local and international dishes at Retro Tavern and I certainly recommend trying, among other, Kolokasi (tarot) vegetarian meatballs at Taverna I Plateia Kalavasos. The Library Hotel & Wellness Centre is another good option for a delicious meal or drinks as it has a  lovely courtyard. 

CLOSING REMARK

Whether you are looking for a long weekend or a road trip, Kalavasos is a fine destination to spend some time away from the city buzz, and indulge in local Cypriot hospitality and rural life.