3 days in Belgrade
Belgrade, the bustling capital of Serbia, is quickly becoming one of the most popular city-break destinations in the Balkans, so as soon as I got the chance, I flew there to experience it all firsthand. I spent 3 full days exploring the city and all it has to offer, I discovered its intriguing past and enjoyed its energetic atmosphere.
Known to locals as Beograd, Belgrade is the capital and largest city of the Republic of Serbia, located at an idyllic location at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. The old town, called “Stari Grad”, is predominated by Kalemegdan, a large ancient fortress which is the city’s symbol and most popular tourist attraction. The city’s new town, called Novi Beograd (New Belgrade), is located opposite Stari Grad, on the left bank of the Sava River and it’s the country’s business hub.
The following 3-day Belgrade itinerary is an ideal plan if you want to visit the most important attractions, learn about Serbia’s history, savour some local delicacies and still have sufficient time to just sit back and take in the local atmosphere.
Day 1
9-10.00 Start off your day as the Serbs do, by eating a “Burek”, the most famous breakfast food in the country. It is a pastry made with thin phyllo dough and cheese, while other variants may include minced meat, spinach or potato filling. You can easily find it anywhere in the city in bakeries, pastry shops or simply at burek shops.
10-12.00 Where else better to start exploring, than the very heart of the city itself, “Republic Square”. Known colloquially as “the horse,” due to the large equestrian statue of Prince Mihailo, the square is framed by the Serbian National Museum and the Serbian National Theatre. The large square is also where the main pedestrian thoroughfare, “Knez Mihailova”.
While you are there, don’t miss out on the chance to visit the National Museum. After a renovation that lasted over a decade, the “National Museum of Serbia” reopened in June 2018 with 34 archaeological, numismatic, artistic and historical collections. The museum’s permanent collection is organized and presented on three levels and contains items from the Paleolithic period up to the 20th century. Apart from Serbian art and history, the museum holds a big collection of masterpieces by artists such as Picasso, Degas, El Greco, Titian, Monet, and others.
12-15.00 After your museum visit, head to the nearby Bohemian neighbourhood called “Skadarlija”. Originally a melting pot for artists in the late 19th century, the area has been known since then for its vibrant nightlife and lively kafanas (traditional taverns and coffee shops).
Here you can have lunch in one of the city’s most famous traditional restaurants, “Dva Jelena”, well known for its high-quality traditional dishes. As an appetizer try “Kajmak”, a Serbian cheese-like cream that you can spread on “Pogaca” bread. You will find that “Kajmak” is used in various dishes of the local cuisine. For the main course try “Ćevapi”, a mixed-meat ‘sausage’, served with “Lepinja” (Serbian flatbread), kajmak and onions. Ćevapi is considered a national dish in Serbia, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, while it is quite popular in other Balkan countries too.
After lunch, explore Skadarlija’s beautiful cobbled streets, take pictures of the lovely murals covering many of its buildings and why not, have a look at the very interesting collection of “DUB antique shop”. Slowly make your way towards Skadarska street, which leads to “Sebilj česma”, a replica of an Ottoman-style wooden fountain given to the city from Sarajevo. The fountain is where Skadarlija ends, therefore from this point on, you can either turn back and go to Republic Square or continue left to Cara Dušana Street which leads directly to the Belgrade Zoo and Belgrade Fortress (Kalemegdan).
15-19.00 “Belgrade fortress” (Kalemegdan) is a large fortress complex that was built, destroyed and rebuilt continuously for 16 centuries, starting from the 3rd century BC. The fortress comprises the Upper and Lower Town and in the past, the whole city population was concentrated within its walls. There are several attractions to see within its walls, such as the hamam, several churches, the clock tower, fountains, the military museum, the dungeon and the “Kalemegdan Park” that surrounds most of the fortress. Nevertheless, the most impressive feature is surely the view of the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers below. Stay till sunset time a cup of coffee at the “Kalemegdan cafe” (Kalemegdanska terasa), whilst taking in the incredible view.
19-22.00 Head down from Kalemegdan Park towards the river, to “Savamala” area, where you’ll find one of Belgrade’s contemporary attractions, “Beton Hala”. Situated on the Sava riverfront, Beton Hala (The Concrete Hall) is a former industrial building now being used by some of the city’s best bars and restaurants. Walk by the river to end up in one of the promenade’s trendy restaurants. A good choice is “Ambar”, a stylish restaurant with modern Balkan cuisine. The concept here is to order a variety of small plates, so as to taste as many of their delicious dishes as possible. Combine your meal with a local craft beer.
22.00 If you still have some energy left, continue for drinks at one of the Beton Hala’s bars and eventually head straight to “Beton”, one of Belgrade’s top nightclubs.
Day 2
9:30-10.30 Today, head to Vračar area and treat yourself to a delicious breakfast or brunch buffet at “Homa Bistrot”. This Bistrot is the younger sibling of “Homa”, one of Belgrade’s most popular restaurants and offers Serbian cuisine with a twist. The buffet is rich, not overpriced, the staff is extremely friendly and the decoration is very instagrammable. What else could you ask for?
11-12.00 After breakfast, walk to the city’s most celebrated building, the “Temple of Saint Savva”. This massive religious structure is the world’s second-largest Orthodox church and is dedicated to the country’s patron Saint. Its construction began in 1935, on the presumed location of Saint Savva’s grave and its plan was largely inspired by Haghia Sophia in Constantinople. Apart from some of the dome’s mosaics, the interior is not complete yet but you can still visit the completed striking underground crypt.
12-13.00 If you are a bookworm, you can spend some time at the contemporary building right next to the temple, which happens to be the largest library in Serbia, yes you have guessed right, it’s the “National Library”. There is an exhibition space in the foyer with some old manuscripts and books, and a dedication to Ivo Andric, a Nobel laureate of literature.
13-14:30 Not too far away, again in Vračar area, there is a museum you can’t miss. The “Nikola Tesla Museum”. Discover the magical world of one of the world’s most important inventors through the guided tours that run hourly. You’ll learn about Tesla’s life, you’ll see some of his model machines working and various of his personal items. Be patient as the museum is not big and you’ll have to wait for the previous group to finish its tour to get in.
15:00-17.00 Start walking back to the centre by taking Krunska street. This street will lead you right to three more important landmarks, the “Old Palace” (Stari Dvor), the “New Palace” (Novi Dvor) and the “House of the National Assembly”. Today the old Palace serves as Belgrade’s City Assembly, while the new Palace is the Presidential palace. “Pionirski Park” runs between the two palaces and the National Assembly.
The National Assembly was designed in the neo-baroque style and the beautiful sculptures in front of it called “Play by Black Horses” were installed in 1939 by artist Toma Rosandić. If you are still up for some more sightseeing, take a look at “St. Mark’s church” near the National Assembly, which houses the tomb of the most powerful Serbian ruler and a Serbian national hero, Emperor Dušan the Mighty.
17-19:00 Time for a break and perhaps a cup of coffee, so walk down to “Knez Mihailova”. Officially called “Kneza Mihaila”, it is the city’s main shopping pedestrian street which is full of coffee shops, restaurants, souvenir shops, street artists, bookshops and small vendors selling anything and everything from popcorn and souvenirs to chimney cakes and knick knacks all along the way. The 1km long street is lined with many beautiful late 19th century buildings and runs from “Terazije square” further down to “Republic Square” and to “Kalemegdan park”. Almost at the end of Knez Mihailova you will find “Rajićeva Shopping Centre”, a recently constructed shopping mall with numerous local and international brands and restaurants.
20.00-22:00 For dinner visit the “(?)”, yes it’s called “The Question Mark” (Znak Pitanja in Serbian) and it is the oldest, still operating traditional kafana in the city, dating back to the early 19th century. The building itself is one of the city’s few remaining Ottoman-type buildings, and its rustic interior is really atmospheric. Order “Karadjordjeva Steak”, one of Serbia’s most famous dishes, and wash it down with “Rakija”, Serbia’s national drink. To finish off your delicious meal, try a local coffee served with a “ratluk” (Turkish delight) on the side.
Day 3
9-10.00 Today is the day you enjoy a small excursion, and the coolest and closest place to visit is “Zemun”. The bus for Zenum leaves near “Zeleni Venac” which is Belgrade’s main bus hub. You can buy a daily bus ticket from almost any of the small kiosks selling tobacco and soft drinks. Before taking the bus, it is worth walking through the colourful stands of the neighbouring “Zeleni Venac Market”, which is the oldest operational fruit and vegetables market in Belgrade.
10-12:00 Zemun, “a city within a city”, used to be a border town between the Ottoman and the Austrian Empire, until it was united with Serbia and finally “assimilated” by Belgrade in 1934. As soon as you arrive in the centre, you will realise that Zemun has its very own character and vibrant café culture. Go to “Zemunski Kej”, the 1km long promenade on the banks of Danube, grab a coffee and a snack and enjoy the tranquillity of the river and watch the locals having their morning walk.
12-13:00 The most remarkable monument of Zemun is undoubtedly “Gardoš Tower” also known as the Millenium Tower. This impressive red-brick tower was built in 1896 and after a recent renovation, it houses a very small gallery with regular exhibitions. It’s clearly a must to visit its top, as the view is really breathtaking. The tower acts as the perfect lookout over the Danube, Zemun and further on, Belgrade.
Just across Gardoš Tower, you will see “Zemun Cemetery”, a not so ordinary cemetery. Established in the middle of the 18th century, it’s quite unique as it combines 3 different cemeteries, a Christian Orthodox, a Roman Catholic, and a Jewish one, that all came to coexist in time, a testament to the city’s multicultural past.
13-14:00 Pass through the cemetery and you will end up at one of the city’s most renowned restaurants, the “Balkan Express”. It beautifully tops a hill that overlooks the Danube river and some of its tables are actually placed inside an old Yugoslav Railway wagon, hence the name. Its menu includes mostly homestyle Serbian dishes and a selection of international ones.
15-16:00 Head back to Zemun centre and stroll along the paved streets to admire the perfectly preserved old buildings of the 18th and 19th century. Catch the bus to Belgrade centre and if you have time, stop at the “USCE Shopping Mall” which is on the way back, right before Branko’s bridge.
16-17:00 When you get back to Zeleni Venac, walk pass the market through the small park called “Terazijska Terasa”, find “Moskva Hotel” and cross the street to find the rich “Belgrade Design District” (Cumicevo sokace). There you will find a truly interesting area with an amalgam of shops selling a variety of things made by local artists, such as clothes, prints, decoratives, books, crafts etc.
17-18.00 After buying your local arty crafts, return to “Moskva Hotel”. Apart from being an architectural jewel of the Russian secession, the hotel has been a meeting point for the local and world elite for more than a century. Albert Einstein, Indira Gandhi, Luciano Pavarotti and Alfred Hitchcock are just a few of its distinguished clientele. In the hotel’s famed “Moskva Cafe”, you have to try the hotel’s unique homemade cake called “Moskva Snit”, a fruit cake made with almonds, cherries, pineapple and a top-secret cream.
20-22.00 For your last meal in the city, visit the “Supermarket Deli”, a hip contemporary restaurant and delicatessen shop in the centre of Belgrade, situated opposite “Vojvode Vuka Park”. It has a wonderful environment, a warm-hearted staff and an inventive menu with international dishes.
22.00 Complete your trip to Belgrade with a drink. Just a stone’s throw from Supermarket Deli, the “Obilicev Venac Street” is a charming pedestrian area and a favourite hang out of the city’s youth, with lots of modern cafes and bars.
In a nutshell, three days are enough to get a feel of the city, as you will spend most of your time in the old town, considering that the majority of the city’s attractions, museums, restaurants and nightlife scene are all located there. Nonetheless, if you are interested in seeing the modern face of the city, or better said its old communist face, “New Belgrade” lies exactly across the old town, in the opposite bank of the river and has a number of places to discover. The new town is famous for its enormous communist-era buildings and one of its most recognisable structures is “Western City Gate” (Genex), a 35-story brutalist skyscraper. Another impressive communist-era building is the “Museum of Aviation”, the “Sava Center”, while “Blokovi” is a group of urban neighbourhoods with tall brutalist multi-storey buildings. Furthermore, “Belgrade’s Museum of Contemporary Art” is also located here, as well as the gorgeous “Park of Friendship”, a large green space stretching along the banks of the Danube.
Summing up, Belgrade is without a doubt a diverse destination. Moreover, it is a place with numerous opportunities for travellers and definitely a place worth taking a closer look at. Book your tickets soon as it won’t stay an overlooked destination for much longer.
