36 hours in Lisbon

Some European cities ask you to slow down. Lisbon, on the other hand, dares you to keep up. With its steep hills, tiled facades, tram bells, and sweeping viewpoints, the city is both cinematic and chaotic—in the best way possible. I only had a day and a half to explore it, as both airlines—the one flying from the Azores and the one back to Cyprus—seemed determined to turn this trip into a round of Squid Game, as flight times changed to our disadvantage. But my friends and I were committed to squeezing in as much of the Portuguese capital as possible. Spoiler: We did. And we’d do it again.

Day 1 – Tuk Tuks, Tiles & Saint Anthony’s Parties

Lisbon mornings have a particular glow—soft light bouncing off yellow buildings, reflections dancing on azulejo tiles, the smell of fresh bread and coffee in the air, and the sound of seagulls circling overhead. Ours started early, with plenty of pastries and caffeine at a local café. After some deliberation, we opted for a tuk tuk ride through the city’s highlights. With Lisbon’s infamous hills, it felt like the smartest—and most fun—way to get a general overview in limited time.

Our local driver took us up the elegant tree-lined boulevard of Avenida da Liberdade, often dubbed Lisbon’s Champs-Élysées. Once a royal promenade, today it’s home to designer boutiques, grand hotels, and wide sidewalks shaded by leafy canopies. At the top, we arrived at Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte—one of the city’s highest and most breathtaking viewpoints. From there, Lisbon unfurled beneath us: rooftops stacked on steep hills, yellow trams clanging through narrow lanes, and the shimmering Tagus River making its serpentine way through the city, becoming one with the Atlantic Ocean.

We continued downhill, passing the imposing white dome of the Panteão Nacional—Portugal’s National Pantheon. Originally built in the 17th century as a church, it now houses the tombs of national heroes like fado legend Amália Rodrigues and writer Almeida Garrett. Just nearby, we cruised past Mercado de Santa Clara, Lisbon’s oldest flea market, famous for its antique stalls and quirky second-hand finds.

The tuk tuk zigzagged through the Alfama district, Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood. Its tangled alleys—once a Moorish maze—were draped in streamers and banners in preparation for that night’s Festas de Lisboa celebrations. Somewhere between twisting lanes and sudden viewpoints, we stopped at Igreja de São Roque, a rather simple exterior that hides one of Lisbon’s most extravagant interiors. The chapel’s baroque details—gilded woodwork, painted ceilings, and precious stones—made it one of the most opulent churches we saw in the city. Honestly, renting a tuk tuk was one of the best decisions we made. It was fun, fast, and spared us the thigh-busting hills. A Lisbon tuk tuk tour turned out to be the fastest way to conquer the city’s notorious hills while ticking off major landmarks. Lisbon’s terrain is beautiful—but brutal.

We continued exploring on foot, starting at Praça Dom Pedro IV, more commonly known as Rossio Square. It’s the city’s historic meeting point and has been for centuries—from royal parades to revolutionary protests. At this time of year, early June, it was beautifully framed by blooming jacaranda trees, whose purple petals turn Lisbon into a dreamscape.

We then climbed up to Largo do Carmo for a quick coffee beside the hauntingly beautiful Convento do Carmo. Left roofless after the devastating 1755 earthquake, the Gothic convent ruins now stand as a poignant open-air museum, a reminder of the city’s resilience. From there, we made our way to the Elevador de Santa Justa, Lisbon’s only vertical lift, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel. Though we didn’t go up, its wrought-iron beauty and neo-Gothic style were still impressive from below.

Naturally, it was time for a pastel de nata stop—crispy, creamy, cinnamon-dusted heaven. No Lisbon food adventure is complete without a pastel de nata fresh from the oven. We then wandered down Rua Augusta, Lisbon’s main pedestrian artery, lined with tiled facades, elegant cafés, and street performers. It led us straight to the grand Arco da Rua Augusta, a triumphal arch built to celebrate Lisbon’s rebirth after the 1755 disaster. Just beyond, we reached Praça do Comércio, one of the largest squares in Europe, glowing in the afternoon sun with the river lapping at its edge. Despite the crowds, gusts of wind, and relentless sun, we managed to snap a few solid Instagram shots before ducking back into shade.

After some walking, we made it to Time Out Market for a late lunch, Lisbon’s modern culinary mecca housed in a revamped 19th-century market hall. Launched by Time Out Portugal in 2014, it now includes 26 restaurants, 8 bars, dozens of shops, and even a cooking school. From octopus salad to bao buns, sangria to tiramisu, there’s something for everyone—and that’s exactly what we needed.

In the afternoon, we wandered around Chiado district and visited Livraria Bertrand, officially the oldest operating bookstore in the world, founded in 1732. Even though it’s not as grand as Livraria Lello in Porto, its history gave it a different kind of magic. You even get a stamped note in your book confirming you bought it at the world’s oldest bookstore. Outside, a charming open-air book market added even more literary charm.

We returned to Mercado de Santa Clara late in the afternoon to find most vendors closed for the day. But the indoor section was still buzzing with local artists and creators. That’s where I met a Peruvian artist who happened to be a fellow Madrid-lover. Instant connection—as if having visited his country a few months earlier wasn’t enough of a sign. Yes, of course, I bought another piece.

But the day wasn’t over. That evening, we were lucky to stumble into Lisbon’s biggest celebration: the Festas de Lisboa, also known as the Santos Populares. Held throughout June in honour of Saint Anthony, these street festivals are everywhere—every neighborhood, every plaza, every alley. Music blasted, paper garlands fluttered, and the smoky aroma of sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines), bifanas (pork sandwiches), and Bacalhau à Brás (salted cod with scrambled eggs and fried potatoes) filled the air. It felt like we were dropped into someone’s chaotic backyard party—just with hundreds more guests and at least three live bands at once. Pure joy, pure Lisbon.

Day 2 – Brunch, Belem & Bookstore Surprises

Our second day started slower—but not by much. After brunch at Hello Kristof—a stylish café in the Santos district known for its minimalist aesthetic, specialty coffee, and design magazines—we jumped in a taxi and headed to the Belém district.

Unfortunately, we had to skip the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos due to an intimidatingly long line (and the blazing sun). This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most important examples of Manueline architecture in Portugal, built in the 16th century to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India, and a must-visit for every keen traveler. As for the Torre de Belém, it was under renovation, so no postcard shots this time. Still, we enjoyed the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of Discoveries), the massive riverside monument honouring Portugal’s Age of Discovery, with statues of famous explorers like Henry the Navigator leading the way. Street singers performed around it, and we wandered the giant stone world map laid out before it to show the extent of the Portuguese empire during the height of exploration—yes, we found Cyprus. 

From Belém, we headed to LX Factory, Lisbon’s trendy industrial complex turned creative hub. Housed in a 19th-century textile factory, it’s now home to art studios, indie boutiques, design stores, and some of the city’s best eateries. We had drinks, hunted for gifts, and naturally, I found myself in Ler Devagar, yet another bookstore, but not just any bookstore. This repurposed printing press is a cathedral of literature, with books stacked floor to ceiling, suspended bicycles hanging from the rafters, a vinyl shop, prints, and a slow, timeless atmosphere that lives up to its name (which literally means “Read Slowly”). I even shocked myself by buying a vinyl record instead of a book.

Before heading to the airport, we returned to Alfama for a final meal. Just before reaching our restaurant, Antù Alfama, we stopped at Miradouro das Portas do Sol—one of the city’s most iconic viewpoints—to watch the sun dip behind the red rooftops. The view stretches across the Tagus River and over Alfama’s maze-like streets, showcasing Lisbon’s dreamy beauty one last time.

Two days were barely enough to scratch the surface of Lisbon, but in that time, we met artists, locals, and fellow wanderers, and soaked in enough of the city’s charm to carry it with us long after.

Till next time, Lisboa! Save me a tuk tuk and a pastel.

Lisbon Highlights

If you’re planning your Lisbon itinerary, here’s a quick guide to the top landmarks, neighborhoods, and foodie stops we loved.

Viewpoints & Iconic Squares

• Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte – One of Lisbon’s highest and most breathtaking viewpoints overlooking the entire city and the Tagus River.
• Miradouro das Portas do Sol – Classic postcard view of Alfama’s rooftops with the river in the background.
• Praça Dom Pedro IV (Rossio) – Central square framed by blooming jacaranda trees in early June.
• Praça do Comércio – Monumental riverside square framed by yellow arcades, Lisbon’s historic gateway.
• Largo do Carmo – Tranquil square near the Carmo Convent with shaded cafés and great people-watching.

History, Churches & Ruins

• Panteão Nacional – Monumental 17th-century dome housing tombs of Portuguese icons.
• Convento do Carmo – Haunting Gothic ruins left roofless by the 1755 earthquake.
• Igreja de São Roque – Modest exterior hides one of the most lavish baroque interiors in Europe.
• Alfama District – Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood with narrow streets and historic charm, especially vibrant during the June festivals.

Streets, Shopping & Architecture

• Avenida da Liberdade – Lisbon’s elegant boulevard, often compared to the Champs-Élysées.
• Rua Augusta – Pedestrian street with tiled façades, shops, and street performers.
• Arco da Rua Augusta – Triumphal arch with river views; gateway to Praça do Comércio.
• LX Factory – Creative hub in a converted industrial complex with bars, shops, and street art.
• Mercado de Santa Clara – Oldest flea market in the city, great for vintage finds and local art.

Bookstores & Markets

• Livraria Bertrand – The world’s oldest operating bookstore, founded in 1732 (get your book stamped!).
• Ler Devagar (LX Factory) – Stunning bookstore inside a former printing press, full of art and bikes hanging from the ceiling.
• Time Out Market – Massive gourmet food hall with dozens of top chefs and cuisines under one roof.

Cafes & Restaurants

• Antù Alfama – charming, artsy restaurant in the city’s most historic neighborhood.
• Hello Kristof – Minimalist, design-forward café known for good coffee and brunch.
• Manteigaria – Legendary pastry shop where you can watch pastel de nata being made fresh.

Festivals & Local Colour

• Festas de Lisboa / Festas dos Santos Populares – City-wide street festival in June with music, grilled sardines, dancing, and decorations in every alley and plaza.