Best Places to visit in Morocco
“Casablanca”, the classic 1942 American film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman must have planted the first seed of curiosity in me about visiting Morocco, but what mostly shaped my decision to explore this enchanting country, was the alluring images of multicolored carpets in bazars, the endless arrays of blue-washed houses in Chefchaouen and the intricate zellige patterns decorating mosques and riads alike.
Nonetheless, this instagrammable country is not just about cool rugs, photogenic blue walls and fashionable tiles. Above all, Morocco is definitely a place of striking diversity. A trip to this North African kingdom, will take you from epic mountains with playful monkeys, to ancient mud-brick towns, where centuries-old traditions are still alive, and from camel caravans crossing sun-drenched deserts, to the mighty Atlantic Ocean and the peaceful Mediterranean Sea. This is my list of places you can’t miss in Morocco.
Marrakech
It would be unthinkable to visit Morocco and not spend a good amount of time in Marrakech. Just to give you a hint why: this city was so influential in the past that it managed to give its name to the whole country in most languages!
Marrakech is one of the four historical capital cities of Morocco and its Medina (the Old Town), is so rich in monuments and historical buildings, that it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1985. The Red city, as its nicknamed due to its terracotta-coloured buildings, can be explored on foot and luckily enough for visitors, the majority of its attractions and landmarks are located inside the Medina’s walls.
Jemaa El Fna, the main square and the centre of the Medina, is an attraction of its own, with an array of food stalls, acrobats, musicians, snake charmers, fortune tellers, henna artists and it is as exotic and oriental as you would expect. Nearby, you can see Koutoubia Mosque, the city’s symbol as well as its tallest structure. Even though non-Muslims aren’t allowed inside, you can still admire the elaborate decorative details of its exterior, especially on its magnificent minaret. Another awe-inspiring structure is the Ben Youssef Madrasa, once a very important theological college of more than 900 students, with a spectacular interior patio, adorned with exquisitely carved cedar wood, elegant stucco and colourful zellige tiles. Bahia Palace, is a beautiful example of 19th century Moroccan architecture spreading over 80.000m² and a very important monument of Morocco’s cultural heritage. Outside the Medina, Jardin Majorelle and the adjacent Musée Yves Saint Laurent, are two places that will leave you awestruck. Jardin Majorelle offers a break from the city’s heat in its Eden-like gardens which extends over 9,000m². Musée Yves Saint Laurent opened its doors to the public in 2017 and it’s dedicated to the life and work of the famous French fashion icon.
The Atlas Mountains
Snow-capped mountains and lush forests, is not the first thing you think of when you hear the word “Morocco” but, in reality, these mountains have played a quite important role to the history of the nation. The Atlas Mountains stretch for 2,500km, starting from the coast of Morocco, through Algeria and finishing in Tunisia. The Moroccans have divided their part of this massive mountain range into three ranges, the High Atlas, the Middle Atlas and the Anti-Atlas (aka Lesser Atlas). Each range has its own unique points of interest and apart from their natural beauty, yet another interesting feature, is the Berber people which inhabit the area, with a long history and an incredible civilization that goes back eight millennia.
High Atlas Mountains
The largest and most dramatic mountain range in the country, is also home to Morocco’s highest peak, Jbel Toubkal (4,160 meters high), which is located in Toubkal National Park. Needless to say, there is an abundance of outdoor recreational activities, such as skiing during wintertime and hiking during summertime. One of the most popular places to visit is the Todra Gorge, an amazing limestone canyon, perfect for hiking and of course for taking incredible pictures. Yet another natural wonder is Monkey Fingers, a mountain with an eroded sandstone formation that looks like…. Yes you’ve guessed correctly, like monkey fingers. Crossing the High Atlas Mountains you will come across the scenic Dades Valley, a vast valley dotted with rose plantations, oasis, palm groves and countless elaborate kasbahs (fortresses and/or fortified towns). The most impressive kasbahs can be found in Skoura, a large palm grove. One of the most famous, is the 17th century Kasbah Amridil, a kasbah so famous as to appear in a number of films as well as on Morocco’s 50-dirham note.
Middle Atlas Mountains
This part of the range is the most fertile and runs for about 350 km right through the centre of the country, between Fez and Marrakech. In the Middle Atlas Mountains, the most popular point is Ifrane, often referred to as the Switzerland of Morocco. Apart from its Swiss-style chalets and the home of the King’s summer palace, its nearby Ifrane National Park, is great for hiking as well as spotting the Barbary macaques, an endangered species of macaque and the only primate – other than humans – living north of the Sahara and outside of Asia. Another one of the area’s interesting locations is Cascades d’Ouzoud, a 100m high three-tiered photogenic waterfall.
Anti-Atlas Mountains
The least visited of the three parts, but nevertheless the most distinct and varied of the Atlas ranges, runs for almost 300 km from the Atlantic Coast towards Ouarzazate. Tafraoute, is the only large town in this sparsely inhabited region and has been described as “Morocco’s Berber heartland.” A site not to miss, is Le Châpeau de Napoléon (Napoleon’s hat), an impressive rock formation, just a few kilometres south of Tafraoute. The region is also where the arganier tree mainly grows, from which the “liquid gold” of the country is extracted, Argan Oil.
Ouarzazate & Ait-Ben Haddou Ksar
On the edge of the High Atlas Mountains, Ourzazate is the capital city of Ouarzazate Province and the country’s mini Hollywood. The town was for many years a crossing point for African traders on their way to northern Morocco, but in recent years it became famous for being the perfect filming location for both the Moroccan and the international film industry. Two major film production studios are located here, CLA studios and Atlas Studios, as well as a film school and a museum of cinema.
The only authentic historical site in town is the Kasbah Taourirt, the former el Glaoui palace. This grand kasbah, is a fortified earthen settlement built in the early 17th century. It has almost 300 rooms and more than 20 riads, which were occupied by the sons, cousins and extended family of el Glaoui chiefs, along with their servants. Many famous film scenes were filmed in Kasbah Taourirt, such as Lawrence of Arabia, Prince of Persia, The Mummy and many more.
The most impressive place in Ouarzazate province and one of the country’s most characteristic landmarks is Ait-Ben-Haddou Ksar, located around 20 km from the town centre. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987, and once a major stop along the caravan route between Marrakech and the Sahara, it became quite popular when it first appeared in the film Lawrence of Arabia. After that, this beautiful fortified mud-brick ksar, was used for many international films and tv blockbusters, such as Game of Thrones, Jesus of Nazareth, Alexander and Gladiator, to name a few.
Merzouga Desert
One of the greatest experiences you can have in Morocco is to spend a day (and most importantly a night) in the desert. Who has never dreamed of crossing the desert on the back of a camel, watching the sun setting behind the sand dunes and sleeping in a tent under the stars? Merzouga, is actually a village and it is known as the door to Erg Chebbi, Morocco’s most popular sand dune stretch. There are various companies offering dreamlike desert packages, which typically include a camel ride through the reddish-orange dunes, an overnight stay in a gorgeous desert campsite, dinner with local delicacies and Berber entertainment around the campfire. Moreover, if you want to discover the desert in a more alternative way, you can also try sandboarding, book a 4×4 ride or meditate in a fancy yoga retreat.
Fez
Fez or Fes, is the most ancient and holiest of Morocco’s imperial cities, thus is often referred to as the country’s spiritual and cultural capital. The kingdom’s former capital is today the third largest city and home to the world’s largest car-free urban area, the Fez Medina. The Medina covers an area of approx 2.8 square km – yes, it’s huge – and it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With up to 9500 streets, it is a fascinating medieval labyrinth of narrow alleys, filled with busy souks, intricate fountains and bustling squares.
Fez is renowned for its quality leather goods and the best place to see the making process and possibly buy something, is the Chaouwara Tannery. Built in the 11th century, it is the oldest and largest of the three tanneries of Fez and it offers an unparalleled window into the pungent process of producing prime leather using almost the same methods as medieval times. Medersa Bou Inania, built between 1351 and 1357, is a stunning historic theological college and the only religious building in the city that non-Muslims can enter. The college’s premises are adorned with magnificent stucco work, elaborate wood carving and glistening marbles. Medersa al-Attarine is yet another theological college and one of the finest in the city. Built in 1325, is a beautiful example of Moroccan craftsmanship featuring exquisite zellige tiles, beautiful cut plaster and delicate carved cedar.
Right in the heart of the medina, Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque (or al-Karaouine) is the second-largest mosque in Morocco and strongly related to the world’s oldest existing, continually operating university, the University of al-Qarawiyyin. Apart from its library, both sites can only be adorned externally by non-Muslims. Outside the Medina, you can visit the Borj Nord Arms Museum. Originally built in 1582 as a fortress, it opened in 2016 as a museum with a great collection of ornate daggers, old photos and various other exhibits of Morocco’s military history. The Museum surroundings are also a great spot to marvel at the Medina from above.
Chefchaouen
Set amidst the scenic Rif Mountains in northwest Morocco, Chefchaouen or Chaouen was founded in 1471 and served as a fortress against the invading Portuguese. In the following years it kept expanding by taking in Moorish and Jewish exiles from Spain. Long before becoming an Instagram and Pinterest favourite, due to its prominent blue buildings, the town was primarily known to backpackers for its “kif” (cannabis). There are several theories as to why all the town walls were painted blue. One popular theory suggest that the blue keeps mosquitoes away, while another theory supports that Jews introduced it to remind them of God. A lesser known theory implies that the walls were painted blue simply to attract tourists at some point in the 1970s. Whatever the case may be, the place is simply astounding, especially if you love the colour blue like I do. Chefchaouen is a photographer’s dream, but if you want to take unobstructed pictures of the town, hit the streets before 9 in the morning to avoid the crowds. Likewise, you can take the stairs to the Spanish Mosque on the hill overlooking the town, to get an impressive panoramic view. Plaza Uta El-Hammam is the main square of Chefchaouen where you can breathe in the tranquil local atmosphere of this mountain town while enjoying a cup of mint tea or a tagine.
Rabat
Rabat, located on the Atlantic coast, is the country’s capital since the French moved it from Fez in 1912. The city’s clean and well cared boulevards, its efficient Rabat-Salé tramway system, the numerous modern buildings and its small medina will pleasantly surprise visitors after coming from other cities in Morocco.
Its most noteworthy site is Hassan Tower. The 44m high tower was part of an ambitious Almohad project to build the world’s second-largest mosque but when its patron Sultan Yacoub Al Mansour died, the project seized. The mosque was destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, and today only the half-finished tower and a forest of uncompleted pillars remain. On the opposite side of the Tower, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V is a masterpiece of modern Alaouite dynasty architecture, decorated with patterned zellige, carved plaster and gold-covered cedar ceilings. It contains the tombs of the Moroccan king Mohammed V and of his two sons, late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. The city’s medina is far less touristy than those of Morocco and Fez, while the Kasbah of the Udayas is a wonderful walled citadel with an ancient mosque, a stunning garden, called The Andalusian Gardens, as well as the best place to get magnificent views over Bou Regreg River. Not far away, you can see Rabat’s giant cemetery and its lighthouse where nearby, Plage de Rabat – one of the two central city’s beaches – starts to unfold its sandy strip.
Casablanca
Last but definitely not least, Casablanca is the economic capital of the country, and the ideal representation of modernity in Morocco. The country’s largest city, combines a pleasant compact medina with a large modern city, typical of its 1930’s French-colonial architecture. The city’s landmark is beyond question Hassan II Mosque, inaugurated in 1993 overlooking the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, it can easily accommodate 25,000 worshippers. The largest mosque in Africa, has a stunning 210m-tall minaret and it is a permanent exhibition of the very best Moroccan artisanship has to demonstrate. More than 6000 craftsmen worked ceaselessly for 6 years on the mosque’s delicate doors, marble floors, cedar ceilings and tilework. Take some time for a stroll along The Corniche, Casablanca’s palm-lined beachfront promenade, which is aligned with beautiful cafes, restaurants, beach resorts and nightclubs. The most popular bars and nightclubs are located in the Racine neighbourhood, while up in Sky 28, the bar at the 28th floor of the Kenzi Tower Hotel, you can enjoy a drink while admiring a breath-taking panoramic view of the city. Even though the now-classic film “Casablanca” was not filmed anywhere in the city, you cannot leave the city without paying a visit to the legendary Rick’s Cafe, the place where most of the film’s action supposedly took place, and listen to the pianist playing “As Time Goes By”.
More Places to visit
The list is not exhaustive of course and there are several other exciting and interesting places you can visit in Morocco. I didn’t manage to explore them on during my first time there, but on a second visit I would definitely go for the following: Essaouira, a charming coastal town and Bob Marley’s favourite, the imperial city of Meknes and its nearby significant Volubilis archaeological site, the quiet fishing town of Sidi Ifni, the popular seaside resort of Asilah, and the cosmopolitan city of Tangier.
