Georgia on My Mind - The Islander Stories

Georgia had been on my mind for more than 5 years now, when I first booked flights for a trip planned in May 2020. But if you remember that year, you know how the story goes — Covid swept in, borders closed, travel plans vanished. Almost to the day, I finally managed to set foot in this hidden gem of Caucasus in May 2025. And let me tell you — it was worth the wait.

Over one packed week, my best friend and I traversed the country from east to west. Georgia swept me off my feet with its history, ever-changing landscapes, addictive wine, and people whose warmth felt like a long-lost hug. Was it hectic? Absolutely. The country’s transport infrastructure is still catching up — highways are under construction as we speak, and trains and buses outside major cities are few and far between. But that only added to the adventure.

From Cyprus to the Caucasus: Our Route

We landed in Kutaisi airport late in the morning via WizzAir and immediately took a transfer to Tbilisi with Georgian Buses. The idea was to reach the capital and explore East Georgia first, then make our way back west to Kutaisi — a clever way to cover more ground without backtracking.

Tbilisi: Between Sulfur Baths and Soviet Trinkets

Tbilisi greeted us with a chaotic charm. A city of layers and influences — Persian, Byzantine, Soviet, and modern European — stacked atop each other like a well-seasoned dish. And I immediately wondered, why isn’t this capital city more known around Europe? We based ourselves in the heart of Mtatsminda, one of Tbilisi’s most historic and charming districts. Just a short walk from Abanotubani and the famous sulfur baths, the area blends old-world elegance with a bohemian flair — think tree lined streets, languishing mansions, quaint balconies, and tucked-away cafes. “Tbilisi” comes from the Georgian word tbili, meaning “warm” — a nod to the natural thermal springs that first put the city on the map.

Must-sees? Plenty, but here are a few personal highlights:

Sameba Cathedral (Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi):
One of the tallest and largest Orthodox churches in the world, Sameba Cathedral was completed in 2004 and instantly became a symbol of Georgian national and religious identity. It’s located on the left bank of the Mtkvari River, slightly further out from the historic centre, so plan your visit accordingly. We combined it with a visit to the Dry Bridge Flea Market, which is conveniently situated near one of the bridges connecting the riverbanks.
Dry Bridge Flea Market:
One of my absolute favorites! Open daily, but especially lively and vibrant on sunny weekends. It’s a delightful, semi-chaotic treasure trove of Soviet-era memorabilia, vintage photography, old vinyls, medals, coins, household oddities, and crafts. In the adjacent Dedaena Park, you’ll also find local artists selling original paintings and illustrations, turning the area into an open-air gallery and cultural hotspot.
Rustaveli Avenue:
The city’s cultural backbone and one of its most prominent boulevards. Named after the medieval Georgian poet Shota Rustaveli, this tree-canopied boulevard is lined with elegant 19th and 20th-century architecture, shops, cafes, and major landmarks. Stop at the Georgian National Museum for an engaging crash course in the country’s multi-layered history, from prehistoric times to Soviet occupation. Don’t miss the National Gallery, home to works by Georgian painters like Niko Pirosmani, or simply admire the grand facade of the Parliament of Georgia as you stroll.
Narikala Fortress & Mother Georgia (Kartlis Deda):
Ride the cable car from Rike Park or hike up the trails to Sololaki Hill for some of the best panoramic views of the old city and the Mtkvari River. The Narikala Fortress, originally built in the 4th century and expanded by the Arabs and later Georgians, offers not just sweeping views but a tangible sense of the city’s ancient roots.
Nearby stands the iconic Mother Georgia statue, known locally as Kartlis Deda. With a sword in one hand and a bowl of wine in the other, she embodies the Georgian spirit — welcoming to friends, fierce to enemies.
Mtatsminda Park:
A nostalgic gem perched on top of Mtatsminda Mountain, accessible by the historic funicular railway. The park itself has an old-school amusement vibe, with Ferris wheels, rides, and cotton candy stands, but even if that’s not your scene, go for the sunsets and views over the entire city.
Tbilisi Botanical Garden:
Tucked behind Narikala Fortress, the Botanical Garden is a green oasis right in the city. It dates back to the 17th century (as a royal garden) and now features thousands of species of plants from Georgia and beyond, as well as waterfalls, wooden bridges, and walking trails. A great spot to cool off and recharge after sightseeing — you can enter either from behind Narikala or from the Leghvtakhevi Waterfall area in the old town.
Metekhi Church & King Vakhtang Gorgasali Statue:
Perched stoically on a cliff above the Mtkvari River, Metekhi Church dates back to the 13th century and stands on the site of King Vakhtang I Gorgasali’s former palace. It holds deep symbolic importance for Georgians and is closely tied to the city’s founding myth. Right next to it, the equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali — founder of Tbilisi in the 5th century — gazes toward the old town. Locals joke that he’s giving a high-five to the people, which feels fitting considering his role in shaping the city’s identity.

Tbilisi Day Trips (because who stays put?)

Tbilisi is a good starting point if you want to explore the surrounding regions so we book 2 different day trips, all through Viator website. If you feel like it, you can also rent a car and do the trip at your own pace.

1. Kazbegi & Gudauri (Georgia Military Highway)
This was one of the most memorable days of the trip. The drive itself is part of the experience as the Georgian Military Highway winds through breathtaking mountain passes, river valleys, and alpine villages, making every turn a new postcard. We first stopped at Ananuri Fortress, a picturesque 17th-century complex overlooking the emerald-green Zhinvali Reservoir. The contrast of ancient stone towers with the glistening water is something out of a fantasy novel. A few hours later, we reached the iconic Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument in Gudauri. Built in 1983, it features vibrant murals depicting historical scenes of friendship between the two nations, set against a dramatic cliffside backdrop with snow-capped peaks — both ironic and awe-inspiring given recent politics. Finally, we ascended to the Gergeti Trinity Church, arguably Georgia’s most famous postcard scene. Perched at 2,170 meters above sea level with Mount Kazbek (5,047 m) looming in the background, the view is beyond breathtaking. You’ll need a 4×4 to reach the top, or you can hike if you have the time. Either way, it feels like a sacred place where time stands still.

2. Vardzia, Rabati & Borjomi
A long day, but so worth it. We started at Rabati Castle, a surprisingly eclectic complex in Akhaltsikhe. It blends medieval stone walls with Ottoman minarets, an Orthodox church, a synagogue, and even a museum — a true symbol of Georgia’s multi-layered identity. The recently renovated structure is a mix of old and new, but the hilltop views and cultural fusion make it a standout. Next, we ventured into the Vardzia cave monastery — imagine an entire 12th-century city carved into the side of a cliff. You can walk through rock-hewn tunnels, see frescoes painted in the reign of Queen Tamar (a Georgian national heroine), and try to picture the lives of monks who lived here in isolation. On the way back, we passed through Borjomi, famous for its fizzy mineral water, lush forests, and leafy central park. You can taste the spring water straight from the source — an acquired taste, let’s say — or stroll by the river and enjoy the cooler mountain air.

Kakheti Region – Wine, Walls, and Warmth

Georgia was the first country to make wine (!). Archaeological findings indicate a winemaking history dating back 8,000 years, so of course, we had to visit one of its wine regions. Kakheti, one of the country’s most famous wine regions and the closest to Tbilisi, is also home to one of the country’s most Instagrammable villages: Sighnaghi.

Sighnaghi – The City of Love
Driving into Sighnaghi feels like stepping into a romantic Georgian-Italian mashup. The walled town, with its terracotta roofs and pastel houses, offers panoramic views of the Alazani Valley, which turns golden in the late afternoon sun. We walked a section of the surrounding city walls — an 18th-century fortification originally built to defend the town from invaders — and strolled through cobbled streets with local artists selling paintings, embroidered goods, and churchkhela (a local nut-and-grape snack).

For lunch and of course wine tasting, we chose Kerovani Winery, a family-owned gem inside the village. Their qvevri wines (fermented in clay jars buried underground) were deep, earthy, and full of character, just like the people. Alongside the wine came traditional dishes like Sacivi – a chicken dish served with a thick sauce containing onion, garlic, walnuts, spices and herbs, khachapuri (cheese bread), and Badrijani Nigzvit which consists of fried eggplant rolls with walnut — food meant for sharing and lingering over.

Kutaisi – A Quiet Finale

Kutaisi, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, was once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Colchis — the land of the Golden Fleece in the myth of Jason and the Argonauts. Today, it’s Georgia’s third- or fourth-largest city, depending on the source, but it retains the feel of a relaxed large provincial town. Its history runs deep, yet it welcomes you with a sense of easygoing charm and soft nostalgia. We didn’t have much time here, but what we saw made us want to return — there’s a quiet magic to the place.

Bagrati Cathedral:
Possibly my favourite spot in the city. Perched on Ukimerioni Hill, Bagrati Cathedral dates back to the 11th century and was once a masterpiece of medieval Georgian architecture. Though heavily damaged over the centuries and controversially restored in the 2010s (which led to its removal from the UNESCO World Heritage list), it still holds immense symbolic and cultural value. At sunset, the stone glows golden, and the views over Kutaisi are breathtaking. Locals gather here, sprawled on the grass with friends, sipping beers, chatting, and watching the sky melt into shades of pink.
Lado Meskhishvili Theatre:
An elegant building in the heart of town, the Lado Meskhishvili State Drama Theatre is named after a famed Georgian actor and director. Built in the early 20th century, it stands as a beautiful relic of Kutaisi’s cultural heritage. Even if you don’t catch a show, it’s worth stopping to admire its neoclassical facade — especially lovely when lit up at night. It’s located just across from the Kolkheti fountain, making it easy to pair with a city center stroll.
Kolkheti Fountain:
This striking fountain dominates Central Square and is impossible to miss. Covered in golden sculptures of ancient animals and figures, it pays tribute to Colchian mythology and Georgia’s prehistoric past. The designs are actually inspired by artifacts found in local archaeological digs, reimagined in glittering grandeur. It’s a unique and playful monument — like a mythical storybook in fountain form.
Kutaisi Central Market (Green Bazaar):
A bustling and aromatic hub of local life. Step inside to be greeted by heaps of fresh herbs, pungent spices, honeycombs, tubs of pickles, churchkhela hanging like edible candles, and friendly faces offering samples of everything from tklapi (fruit leather) to homemade adjika (spicy paste). If you’re a fellow foodie, this is a must-visit. Even if you’re not buying, it’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. Bonus points if you practice a little Georgian — the locals appreciate it.

Day Trip from Kutaisi: Earth, Water, and Caves

This was our 3rd and last organized day trip, where we saw Georgia at its most dramatic and fairytale-like. After a bus ride up the mountains from Kutaisi, we descended to Prometheus Cave, near Tskaltubo. Once inside, we walked through an otherworldly network of chambers filled with glowing stalactites and stalagmites, lit with colour-changing lights. The best part? A peaceful boat ride on an underground river — it truly felt like sailing into the underworld before emerging into sunlight again. Next, we headed to Okatse Canyon, where a sky-high metal walkway clings to the cliffside, giving you dizzying views downwards into the forested gorge below. Not for the faint-hearted, but the adrenaline rush (and the photos) were worth it. I’m not sure Ι’ve ever seen so much green in my life before. Lastly, we visited Martvili Canyon, a lush oasis with turquoise waters and jungle-like foliage. The short boat ride through the canyon revealed moss-covered cliffs and delicate waterfalls. It was serene and surreal — the kind of place you never expected to exist in the heart of Caucasus.

Final Thoughts

Georgia surprised me. In all the right ways. The food? Addictive. The wine? Dangerous (in a good way). The landscapes? Wild and varied. The people? Warm, curious, generous. Every stop had its own story — from cave monasteries to Soviet flea markets, from sulfur baths to vineyard feasts. But what tied it all together was that unmistakable Georgian spirit. Fiercely proud, yet endlessly welcoming. So yes, Georgia was on my mind — and now it’s in my heart too. So hurry up and visit before it becomes more popular and hordes of tourists rush in and spoil its magic.

Practical Tips for Your Georgian Escape

SIM cards: Super easy. Get one right outside Kutaisi airport — unlimited internet for 7 days was just 15 GEL.
Transport: Download Bolt. It’s like Uber but local. Inexpensive and reliable. Most city rides cost under 10 GEL.
Cash: Still king in many places, especially for marshrutkas (minibuses), small vendors, and rural areas.
Coffee: Don’t expect early café vibes. Most places open after 9 or 10 AM.
Airports: Appear small, but give yourself a minimum 2.5 hours. Security checks and passport control move at their own pace.

Useful Georgian Words