Montenegro, Wild Balkan Beauty

It was around 4 a.m. and I was having trouble sleeping again, which was very common for me during my recovery period from Covid-19, when I decided to check out ticket prices about a destination that was not on my bucket list until a friend suggested it. So, here I am, almost four months later, trying to write down as many details as possible about my 8-day stay in Montenegro.

YOUNG YET HISTORICALLY RICH 

What most people probably don’t know is that Montenegro is a very young country. It became independent after a referendum held in 2006, thus leaving the federated union of Serbia and Montenegro. The country’s name in its native language translates to “Black Mountain”(Crna Gora) and derives from the appearance of Mount Lovćen in southwestern Montenegro, which is covered by dense vegetation giving it a very dark colour. 

Even though the whole country is less than 300km from one end to the other, I was surprised to discover that this small nation of only 600.000 people is abundant in natural beauties, cultural and architectural treasures and breathtaking sceneries, making me wonder why this little Adriatic gem is not as popular outside the Balkans. 

When I originally planned my travel itinerary, I added as many places and local experiences as possible, but as you may know, plans don’t always work out the way we expect them to. The good news is that impromptu incidents are usually the most valued and unforgettable experiences you may have during a trip, so always leave some room in your schedule for unexpected adventures, last-minute discoveries and even a last-minute change of plans. 

Many of the places I visited can only be accessed by car so rent one in order to be able to stop wherever and whenever you want as you are bound to be fascinated by the natural surroundings. 

MUST VISIT PLACES

Durmitor National Park

Durmitor National Park in northern Montenegro, is a breathtaking natural area covered by dense vegetation, lush green forests and transparent lakes. It is also traversed by turquoise rivers and it is home to the deepest canyon in Europe, Tara Canyon. Durmitor comes in complete contrast to the country’s coastal area and while it is most popular during the winter months, it is also a delightful stop during the summer too, as it is a green and cool oasis amidst the high temperatures and humidity levels that prevail in the rest of the country.

One of the most popular activities in Montenegro’s largest protected area is rafting in Tara Canyon and of course, hiking at its countless nature trails, but as we were still tired and sleepless from our early morning flight we decided to just visit the largest and most beautiful of the 18 glacial lakes of the park. Black Lake (Crno jezero), near Zabljak town, is the ultimate highlight of Durmitor and its name comes from the large shadow that is reflected in its waters from the 2287m high Međed mountain. There is a 3.5km trail around the lake that takes 1.5hrs to walk and a restaurant at its bank where you can have a drink or a meal. The scenery at Black Lake is utterly impressive and it comes as no surprise that many people associate it with the Canadian mountain lakes. 

You can stay in Zabljak town at the centre of the park, but if you prefer to enjoy the natural surroundings and feel the mountain wilderness at its fullest, I suggest you book a wooden cabin at one of the campgrounds. We stayed at Etno Village Vojnik in Šavnik and we didn’t regret it, not for a bit. On our first morning, we were awakened by a cow having its breakfast by our cabin’s window and we even had the chance to do some exploring around the surrounding hills, admiring the impressive views and discovering the local flora and fauna.

Ostrog Monastery

On our way to Durmitor National Park, we stopped at one of the most sacred places in the country, Ostroz Monastery. Founded by Vasilije, Bishop of Herzegovina, later known as St. Vasilije of Ostrog, the monastery was built into a sheer cliff 900m above Zeta valley, 50km away from Podgorica. The Monastery consists of two parts: the Lower (Donji manastir) and the Upper Monasteries (Gornji manastir). The Lower Monastery is about 3km below the Upper Monastery and visitors can admire the 19th-century frescoes of the Holy Trinity Church and then they can either walk the uphill path through the forest to the Upper Monastery or drive to the large parking space closer to it. The Upper Monastery was constructed within two large caves, of which one houses the Church of the Holy Cross and the other the Church of the Presentation that holds the relics of Saint Basil of Ostrog, beneath some beautiful 17th-century frescoes. Be advised that as Ostrog Monastery is the most popular pilgrimage site in the country, there might be a queue for the cave with the Saint’s keepsake, especially during summer, the weekends and on May 12th, the day of the commemoration of the Saint. We visited the Monastery on an August Saturday and we had to wait for almost 45 minutes to enter.

Podgorica

It might not be as charming as other cities, mainly due to its bombardment during WWII and NATO’s airstrikes in 1999, but for its size (almost 200.000 people) Podgorica has a good number of museums and galleries, a lively night scene, numerous parks and it is a quite convenient base to explore many of Montenegro’s most important sites and attractions. Moreover, as it is not flooded with tourists like the seaside towns, it makes it much easier to discover and understand local life. The heart of the city is Trg Republica, the main square, where the surrounding streets are packed with shops, cafes and restaurants. 

The city is situated at the confluence of two rivers, Ribnica and Morača. Two modern bridges over the Morača river connect the two sides of the city, Moscow Bridge and Millenium Bridge, the latter being one of the city’s most distinguished landmarks. Another famous attraction is the Clock Tower (Sahat kula) which is located in Stara Varoš, an Ottoman-era neighbourhood. Not very far away, you can visit Ribnica, an Ottoman fortress built in the late 15th century. Very close to the fortress, a beautiful stone bridge called the Old Bridge over the Ribnica (Stari most na Ribnici) aka Adži-paša’s bridge, connects the two Ribnica river banks and it is the oldest bridge in Podgorica. Among other interesting collections, The Museums and Galleries of Podgorica contain antiquities from Doclea, an ancient city discovered around 3km north of Podgorica, while Petrović Palace operates as a Contemporary Art Centre hosting both temporary as well as permanent exhibitions of modern art. Last but not least, the Cathedral of Christ Resurrection will impress you with its large dome, white exterior but most importantly with its lavish and controversial frescoes, one of which depicts the likeness of Tito, Friedrich Engels and Karl Marx burning in hell.

Not far from the city centre, you can discover the local viticulture and winemaking traditions of Montenegro. Plantaže, the biggest and most important producer of grapes, wines and brandy in the country and in Southeastern Europe, offers a number of different wine tasting experiences and tours of their extensive cellar. The company owns three wine cellars, but the most impressive one, the one we visited, is  Šipčanik, a former military underground airport, located at the heart of its vineyard, which also happens to be the largest single vineyard in Europe! Our tasting lasted almost 1.5 hours and it included a tour of the impressive wine cellar and the sampling of 5 different wines accompanied by a cheese assortment. It was during our wine tasting that our lovely sommelier Ana, proposed we visit the nearby Niagara Falls. We didn’t give it a second thought as recommendations from locals, most of the time lead to fascinating experiences and so we decided to see what the fuss was about.

Niagara Falls as the locals have nicknamed them, is a complex of a handful of waterfalls and a large man-made pool/dam, where locals take a dip during the summer months or simply relax by its shores. If you are not up for a swim you can have a coffee or a meal at the restaurant beside the falls. We decided to do both, we first had a hearty local breakfast at the restaurant and then climbed down the river’s steep rocky cliffs and had a refreshing swim at the small beach, found at the foothill of the dam. Looking back to that day I can now honestly say that that was probably one of my trip’s best highlights. 

Cetinje & Lipa Cave 

If you are a culture buff then you will fall in love with the old royal capital, Cetinje. This little town of 14.000 residents has retained its old elegant character and is home to the country’s most important museums and cultural institutions. This is literally the heart of Montenegrin history and culture. As the town is quite small it can be easily explored on foot. Walking around is a real pleasure as the town has many parks, quaint little squares and beautiful historic buildings. 

Founded in the 15th century at the base of Lovćen Mountain, it became the capital in 1878, whereas in 1946 the capital was moved to Podgorica, known as Titograd then, and Montenegro became part of the former Republic of Yugoslavia. Almost all museums, galleries and attractions are close to each other so it won’t take you much time to go from one place to another. It’s all down to you and how much history and culture you want to take in. 

Perhaps the most significant and also the most beautiful place to visit is Cetinje Monastery aka Monastery of Saint Peter. Is one of the country’s most important sites as it is considered a symbol of Montenegro’s spirituality, freedom and national consciousness. King Nikola Museum was the house of the Montenegrin Royal family and is a quick, but still a good intro to the life of the 19th-century’s local elite. Apart from the King Nikola Museum, you can have a look at the Ethnographic Museum which holds a collection of utensils, furniture, textiles, weapons, folk costumes and other objects of folk art. The Montenegrin Art Museum and the History Museum, are two other museums worth visiting if you want to learn more about the country’s history and local art. Most of the museums can be visited with a combined ticket.

Less than 5km away from Cetinje, Lipa Cave can easily fit into any day trip to the old royal capital. Cetinje territory has more than 1000 speleological features and formations, but Lipa cave is one of the largest in the country and the only one open to organised visits. There are two types of tours you can choose from, the adventure tale for the adrenaline junkies and the cave experience, the one we chose. The tour lasts almost an hour (including the short train ride to the cave’s entrance) and a guided tour through the cave’s 2.5km long passages and halls, admiring its overwhelming stalactite and stalagmite structures. Take a light jacket with you as the temperature inside the cave is always between 8-12 degrees Celsius.

Njegoš Mausoleum is another top choice attraction situated relatively close to Cetinje (20km away), but have in mind that there are 461 stairs to the Mausoleum as it sits atop Mount Lovćen. The Mausoleum is dedicated to Petar II Petrovic Njegoš, Montenegro’s greatest hero. Needless to say, the views from the top are simply spectacular.

Sveti Stefan

On the way to Bar, in Southern Montenegro, we stopped at Sveti Stefan, probably the most photographed place in the country. Sveti Stefan, 6km off Budva, is a small fortified islet with charming stone buildings intertwined with tall cypress and pine trees, connected with the mainland by a narrow piece of land. The whole island is a 5-star luxurious resort, Aman Sveti Stefan. You can’t enter unless you are a guest or pay a 30 euro fee to use its private beach, which can be found right off the coast of the islet. Taking pictures from the viewpoint off the highway, right above it was enough for us.

Bar Old Town

Bar is the main seaport of the country, but the true highlight is its old town. Located on a hill 4km away from the centre of the new town, the old town of Bar (Stari Bar), is truly an open-air museum. Even though the fortified town has stayed uninhabited after the 1979 earthquake, quite a bit has been restored and today visitors can wander through the town’s beautiful ruins, enjoy magnificent views of Mount Rumija rising behind it and an almost birds-eye view of the new town and port that spreads below it. There are several souvenir shops and cafes along the way to the gate of the fortified town if you want to enjoy a coffee whilst admiring the town walls.

Bay of Kotor

Located in the north of Montenegro and very close to the border with Croatia, the Bay of Kotor (Boka Kotorska) has some of the most iconic places in Montenegro. It might look like a Scandinavian fjord when looking at the pictures on the internet or in any travel guide but in reality, it is a stunning bay of the Adriatic Sea surrounded by lush green mountains and charming towns all around its shores. The highlights of the bay are Kotor old town, Perast, Herceg Novi and Tivat with its striking Porto Montenegro.

Kotor

Enter through its main gate and you’ll feel as though you have stepped into a medieval fairytale. The old fortified town of Kotor is one of the most well-preserved medieval towns in the Adriatic. There are countless sights to visit such as the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon (Sveti Tripun), the main square Trg od oruzja (Square of arms) with its baroque Clock Tower, the Church of St. Luka, the Church of St. Nicholas, a number of palaces, and of course the Walls that stretch for 4.5 km directly above the old town, forming a halo-like structure on the mountain over the old city. The old town is a fascinating labyrinth comprising beautiful churches, Venetian palaces, busy cafe-strewn squares and charming alleys. The best thing you can do is just let yourself loose and explore. During the night, the town transforms again as the walls lit up and the streets and squares buzz from the people and the music coming from the bars hidden in small alleys, the restaurants nestled around historic squares and from the impressive castle-top clubs.

Perast

Not very far from Kotor, there is an idyllic little town named Perast. Being a sailing centre for centuries, it left the town with several gorgeous buildings, marvellous churches and a charming waterfront with postcard views of Kotor Bay. Take a leisurely walk by its waterfront that is also the town’s main street, and you will discover most of its attractions. St Nicholas’ Church, situated at a small square with palm trees is the centre of Perast. The two other attractions of Perast, are the two small picturesque church islets of St. George Island (Sveti Đorđe) and Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Škrpjela) that can be accessed by taxi-boat.

Porto Montenegro – Tivat

The once humble seaside town and naval base of Tivat has undergone a major makeover and now boasts a first-class superyacht marina called Porto Montenegro. The marina is open to visitors and you can take a walk at its lovely promenade, enjoy the views of the posh apartment blocks and shiny yachts, do some window shopping or have a drink at one of its fancy cafes.

GASTRONOMY

You can’t leave Montenegro without enjoying some of its local delicacies. Even though its dishes vary from region to region, Montenegro food can be roughly divided into two or three regional categories: the mountains, the heartland and the coast. Dairy products and meat dominate the menu at the mountains and plains and as you get closer to the coast, fresh fish and seafood start to appear on the menu. 

Njeguski Steak is a pork steak stuffed with cream cheese (kajmak) and local prosciutto, rolled up, and usually served with fries and vegetables.  Karadjordjeva schnitzel is the same dish but the steak is breaded and pan-fried. Buzara is a seafood dish, slow-cooked in either red or white wine sauce. Black Risotto is another popular dish in the coastal areas, made with squid and squid ink. Cevapi are small sausages and Pljeskavica are burger patties, both served with fries and salad. Srpska is a salad with tomato, cucumber, onion and shreds of soft, white cheese dressed with olive oil. Bajadera is Montenegro’s most popular dessert and even though it comes in various versions, it always has three layers, two with chocolate and one with walnut. Priganice is a type of doughnut and can be found mostly in the mountain areas. The national drink is Rakija, which can be made out of almost any fruit and its alcohol content can range from 40% to 80% or higher. If you are not much of a drinker you can always try one of the local beers such as Nikšićko and Fabrika. Last but not least,  try a few of the many wines produced in Montenegro. The country produces a good variety of wines, from the indigenous Vranac and Krstač to the classic Chardonnay and Merlot.

EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS

Montenegro is a destination that pleasantly surprised me. I never thought that a young country like Montenegro could have such a rich historic past and centuries-old tradition. From the gleaming lakes of the north to the medieval coastal towns of the south, Montenegro is definitely a destination worth discovering.