My Ithaca: A Complete Travel Guide to the Island of Odysseus

Almost in time before Christopher Nolan’s highly anticipated film The Odyssey reached cinemas around the world, I managed to visit a place I had longed to see since I was a child. And that island is no other than the Greek island of Ithaca, the legendary home of Odysseus.

You might be wondering why I always wanted to visit that specific island, a rather lesser-known Greek island and a relatively undiscovered holiday destination compared to other islands in Greece. I first read Homer’s epic poem The Odyssey in school when I was around 11 years old, and I became fascinated by the story, the magic, the monsters, the Gods, the adventures, and the whole quest of returning home. My fascination grew stronger when some years later I read Cavafy’s famous poem “Ithaca”, which talks about the meaningful hardships and experiences someone has while trying to reach a goal, and it eventually became a personal mantra for me.

So yeah, this island has always been somewhat special for me, my own Neverland. To be honest, I wasn’t sure what I would discover when visiting; I was actually scared I would get disappointed and that reality would not live up to the imagery I had created in my mind. Fortunately, Ithaca did not disappoint, and it was well worth the wait.

So, even if you have never read The Odyssey or watched the latest film adaptation, but you are looking for a laid-back place, with no mass tourism, stunning scenery, great food, and amazing beaches, then Ithaki – as it is called in Greek – is the perfect destination for you.

How to get there 

It took Odysseus ten whole years to reach the island, but thankfully your trip won’t be that long. Unless you are travelling by a private yacht, the main way to reach Ithaca is by ferry, as the island does not have an airport. Ferries connect Ithaca with the neighbouring islands of Kefalonia and Lefkada, as well as with mainland Greece from Patras and Astakos. 

The ferry from Kefalonia takes around 30 minutes and you can actually see Ithaca when in Kefalonia, which makes the journey even more exciting. The ferry departs from Sami Port on the eastern side of Kefalonia and reaches Pisaetos Port on the western side of Ithaca. 

While Sami is a pleasant seaside town with cafés and restaurants where you can spend your waiting time before the ferry, Pisaetos has almost nothing apart from the ferry dock and a small café that operates around ferry arrivals and departures. Once you arrive at Pisaetos, you will need to travel on towards your accommodation, with Vathy being the main base for most visitors. More information about getting around Ithaca can be found in the Practical Information section below.

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Things to Do in Ithaca: Villages, History & Beaches.

Located in the Ionian Sea, just northeast of Kefalonia, Ithaca is a small island with a population of just under 3,000 people. Rocky and mountainous, it consists of two parts – north and south – of about equal size, connected by the narrow Isthmus of Aetos.

Northern Ithaca is home to most of the island’s picturesque villages, famous beaches, and important archaeological sites, while southern Ithaca is where you’ll find the capital, Vathy, another permanent settlement, and several quieter, lesser-known beaches. 

Vathy

The main settlement and capital of the island, Vathy is a charming seaside town with beautiful white and pastel-coloured neoclassical houses built amphitheatrically around a large natural harbour. Green hills covered with olive trees and cypresses surround the bay, creating one of the most picturesque settings in the Ionian Islands.

This will most likely be your starting point for exploring the island and the centre of daily life. Most of Ithaca’s cafés, restaurants, shops, accommodation, and services are located here. Its harbour is filled with sailboats and yachts from all over the world, especially from nearby Italy, giving the town an elegant yet relaxed atmosphere.

There is a small islet measuring just about 50 metres at its longest, known as Lazaretto Islet (or the Island of the Saviour), in the middle of the harbour. This tiny yet historically rich outcrop is home to the 16th-century Church of the Saviour and the ruins of a former prison that was used during the British Protectorate of the Ionian Islands. You’ll often find local boat operators happy to take visitors on a short but picturesque excursion to the islet.

One of the town’s most recognisable landmarks is the bronze statue of Odysseus, located along the central waterfront promenade. Created by sculptor Korina Kassianou and unveiled in 2011, the artwork is double-sided: one side depicts a proud, forward-looking warrior, while the other portrays an older, weary Odysseus paddling home. Together, they represent the two contrasting faces of the legendary hero – the fearless warrior and the man shaped by hardship, longing, and perseverance.

Just a few metres away stands another monument dedicated to the island’s literary heritage: the bust of Homer, the poet whose Odyssey immortalised Ithaca around the world. Created by sculptor Stathis Alexopoulos, it is located in the town’s central square, surrounded by cafés, restaurants, shops, kiosks, and ice cream parlours. It’s the perfect place to sit for a coffee and watch daily life unfold at the island’s capital.

Did you know?

The name “Vathy” (Βαθύ) means “deep” in Greek, referring to the town’s naturally deep harbour, one of the safest anchorages in the Ionian Sea.

The School of Homer – Odysseus Palace

Even though archaeologists and historians continue to debate both the location of Odysseus’ palace and, to some extent, the exact location of Homer’s Ithaca, the archaeological site known as the School of Homer is today considered by many researchers to be one of the strongest candidates for the legendary king’s palace.

Don’t expect an archaeological site with towering marble columns and statues. Instead, you’ll need to let your imagination recreate what may once have stood here more than 3,000 years ago. There are clearly visible remains of a large Mycenaean complex, and the impressive Cyclopean masonry found at the site hints at its importance during the Late Bronze Age.

For me, however, the beauty of this place lies elsewhere. Perched on a hillside overlooking the Ionian Sea and surrounded by ancient olive trees and cypresses, it feels wonderfully peaceful and timeless. Whether or not this truly was Odysseus’ palace, it’s easy to understand why so many people associate this landscape with Homer’s epic.

Perachori

Situated on the slopes of Mount Petaleiko, just 3 km from Vathy, Perachori is one of the island’s oldest and most traditional villages. It is highly recommended for its spectacular views over Vathy Bay, its stone-built houses, and the numerous taverns serving authentic local cuisine.

Among the most interesting places to visit are the Monastery of the Taxiarchs and the Church of Saint Raphael. From the monastery, visitors can continue towards the surrounding vineyards and olive groves, which have shaped the area’s landscape for centuries.

Perachori is also known for its long tradition of wine production, and every August the village hosts its annual Wine Festival, celebrating local wines and traditional music.

Very close to Perachori lie the ruins of Palaiochora, the medieval capital of Ithaca. The abandoned houses, churches and narrow pathways that remain today allow visitors to imagine what life on the island looked like centuries ago, long before Vathy became the island’s capital.

Stavros

Located 17 km north of Vathy, Stavros is the second-largest settlement of Ithaca and an excellent place to stop for a break while exploring the northern part of the island. The village lies close to the School of Homer archaeological site and on the road leading to Kioni, making it a convenient stop during a day of sightseeing.

In the village square you’ll find a bust of Odysseus, as well as a scale model of the legendary palace, designed by Italian architect Bruno Mazzali in 1993, offering visitors an artistic interpretation of what the palace may have looked like during the Mycenaean period.

My favourite stop, however, was Margarita Café, a lovely family-run café serving excellent coffee, refreshing drinks, and one of the island’s most famous traditional desserts, “Revani”. If you only stop in Stavros for one thing, make it this little café.

Kioni

Undoubtedly, Kioni is one of the most beautiful villages on Ithaca. Built on a lush green hillside overlooking a sheltered bay, 24 km from Vathy, it is often considered the postcard image of the island. Beautiful stone houses with terracotta roofs, narrow cobbled alleys, colourful flowers and stairways leading down to the sea create one of the most picturesque settings in the Ionian Islands.

At the entrance to the harbour stand three ruined Venetian windmills, one of Kioni’s most recognisable landmarks and a reminder of the village’s maritime past. The waterfront is lined with cafés, taverns and seafood restaurants where you can enjoy freshly caught fish while watching sail boats gently drift across the bay. If you only have time to visit one village outside Vathy, make it Kioni. It perfectly captures the relaxed beauty that makes Ithaca so special.

Church of Panagia in Anogi

The Church of Panagia (officially the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos) in Anogi is one of the oldest and most historically significant churches in the Ionian Islands. Its origins date back to the Byzantine period, although the church has undergone several additions and restorations over the centuries.

The interior of the church is of great interest, as it is adorned with remarkably well-preserved Byzantine frescoes. The church was declared a protected historical monument by the Greek Ministry of Culture and remains one of Ithaca’s most important religious and cultural landmarks. Many of the surviving wall paintings date from the 17th century, offering visitors a fascinating glimpse into the island’s artistic and religious heritage during the Venetian period.

The impressive Venetian bell tower, the symbol of Anogi, still dominates the village skyline and continues to attract pilgrims and visitors alike. Every year on August 15th, the Feast of the Assumption is celebrated here with one of the island’s largest religious festivals. As the church is usually kept locked to protect its priceless frescoes, visitors can obtain the key from the friendly caretaker at the village’s only café and grocery shop.

Gidaki Beach

Gidaki Beach is one of those places that always appears whenever you search for the best beaches in the Ionian Islands. Crystal-clear turquoise waters, dramatic white cliffs and pine trees stretching almost to the shoreline create a landscape that feels almost unreal.

Located on the island’s eastern coast, this secluded beach is widely regarded as the most beautiful beach on Ithaca and one of the finest beaches in Greece. Part of the beach is organised with parasols, sun loungers and a small seasonal beach bar serving drinks and snacks, while the larger part remains wonderfully natural and unspoilt.

Gidaki is accessible either by boat or on foot.

If you choose the hiking route, you can drive or cycle to Skinos Beach, cross the beach and then follow a scenic nature trail through fragrant pine forests for approximately 30 minutes before descending a series of steps to Gidaki. The walk is not particularly difficult, and the breathtaking views along the way make the effort more than worthwhile.

Filiatro Beach

Filiatro Beach is the island’s most popular and cosmopolitan beach, located in southern Ithaca. It can be reached by car from Vathy in about 15 minutes, or on foot in approximately 40 minutes, although the summer heat can make the walk quite demanding. The road leading to the beach is narrow and requires careful driving, while the parking area fills up quickly during the peak summer months, so arriving early is recommended.

The beach itself is covered with white pebbles and lapped by crystal-clear turquoise waters, making it one of the most inviting swimming spots on the island. Half of the beach is organised with umbrellas and sunbeds for hire, while the remaining section offers plenty of space for those who prefer a quieter setting. One interesting detail is that the pebbles gradually become smaller towards the far end of the beach, eventually giving way to a small patch of sand, making it especially popular with families.

Where to Eat and Drink

Even though Ithaca is a relatively small island, it offers an excellent selection of cafés, bakeries, traditional taverns and seaside restaurants. Here are a few places me and my best friend genuinely enjoyed during our stay.

Vathy

• The Batis Restaurant
• YE Bakery Café
• Amarantos Traditional Bakery
• Trehantiri Tavern
• Katoi tou Lala Bar
• “Mylos” La Creperie Bar

Kioni

• Spavento Café-Bar
• Calypso Restaurant

Stavros

• Margarita Café

Wherever you decide to eat, don’t miss the opportunity to try fresh local fish, traditional meat dishes, and a glass of locally produced wine, while enjoying the relaxed atmosphere that makes Ithaca so memorable.

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Is This Really Odysseus’ Ithaca?

One question that often comes up is whether modern Ithaca is truly the island described by Homer.

The answer is that nobody knows for certain.

Many archaeologists and historians believe that today’s Ithaca is indeed the homeland of Odysseus, supported by archaeological discoveries such as those at the School of Homer. Others argue that parts of Homer’s descriptions better match neighbouring Kefalonia or even Lefkada, making the location of Odysseus’ kingdom one of archaeology’s longest-running debates.

Personally, I enjoy the mystery. Whether or not this was the exact island ruled by Odysseus over three thousand years ago, walking through its mountains, olive groves and quiet villages makes it easy to understand how such stories were born.

Important Information for Your Ithaca Escape

Transportation

Public transportation in Ithaca is very limited, so it is best to arrange your transportation in advance.

If you are not renting a vehicle that will be waiting for you at the harbour, it is recommended to pre-book a taxi from Pisaetos Port to Vathy, the island’s capital and main settlement, where most accommodation, restaurants and services are located. The journey takes around 15 minutes and costs approximately €30.

To properly explore the island, renting a car, scooter, bicycle or electric bike is highly recommended, as many of Ithaca’s most beautiful beaches, villages and archaeological sites are spread across the island and are not easily accessible by public transportation.

During our stay, we rented an electric bike from Alpha Bike & Car Rental in Vathy, which cost approximately €25–30 per day, depending on the model.

Currency 

Euro (€).

Credit and debit cards, including Visa and Mastercard, are widely accepted, although it’s always useful to carry some cash for taxis, small cafés or tipping in restaurants.

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Useful Greek Words

• Hello / Greetings – Yia (Γεια) / Herete (Χαίρετε)
• Thank you – Efharistó (Ευχαριστώ)
• Yes – Ne (Ναι)
• No – Ohi (Όχι)
• Please / You’re welcome – Parakaló (Παρακαλώ)
• Good morning – Kaliméra (Καλημέρα)
• Good evening – Kalispéra (Καλησπέρα)
• Good night – Kaliníhta (Καληνύχτα)

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Final Thoughts

Even though Ithaca is small, three days were only enough to barely scratch the surface of this magical island. While researching this article, I discovered so many more fascinating places to visit – from hidden beaches and mountain villages to archaeological sites – that I already know I’ll be back.

Some places feel familiar long before you visit them. Ithaca was one of them for me. The island of Odysseus. The hero who first made me dream of travelling. Home to one of my favourite childhood stories and later to one of my favourite poems by Constantine P. Cavafy. Maybe that’s why this little island felt so special.

Or maybe it was the quiet beauty of its landscapes, the warmth of its people, and the feeling that life moves at exactly the pace it should.

Whatever the reason, Ithaca left a lasting impression on me. I hope it leaves the same impression on you if you ever decide to visit.